Disassembling the internal unit split systems with your own hands

Open the cover of the body of the inner block and remove the retina filters. We do not close the lid.

Remove the body of the internal device:

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  • Any block from below under the blinds has screws (they are most often under decorative plugs). We unscrew these screws;
  • Under the lid of the inner block (where the filters) can also be screws (or clips). unscrew (or clench) them. Gently open the lower part of the body;
  • Further, our task is to “free” clips on top of the case. They are very tough, and in order to “jerk off” them you need to carefully see how they are attached (in most cases they “click” when raising the bottom of the corps to themselves);
  • Disconnect all the chips from the body, if any;
  • We open the blinds and remove the case (from below on ourselves or from above, depending on the model).

The next task is to remove a drainage tray (in very rare models it is not removed, but made together with the entire body). It is important to consider how it is established so that during subsequent assembly he “stands into place”. We recommend preparing a package or container to drain possible condensate (water) from the tray:

  • Typically, on the left of the tray it is necessary to unscrew one self.tapping screw, then release clips from below;
  • Disconnect all the chips from the tray (or unscrew the louds of the shutters of the drive);
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  • Gently remove the tray and at the same time disconnect the “tail” of the drainage hose (it can be fixed with a latch or self.tapping screw).

The next task is to remove the shaft (fan). This is the most difficult and responsible operation. There may be two options depending on the device of a particular model:

  • a “light situation” when the shaft is removed left without removing the motor and control unit. In this case, there should be a screw inside the fan itself (and the entire left side of the case should be collapsible);
  • unscrew and release the left side of the radiator from the frame of the internal block;
  • We unscrew the screw inside the shaft (not to the end, but only for a couple of revolutions). Here you need to act very carefully, do not break the shaft blades and not spoil the screw head. This screw is often “dragged out”!;
  • We extract the shaft down without damaging any details (and our hands). Usually it is very tightly installed and you need experience to remove it. We can hold the screw with a screwdriver and thus push and direct the shaft.

When installing the shaft back, the screw should very accurately twist “in its place”. Otherwise, the shaft can turn or touch the walls of the case.

Dismantling of the ceiling air conditioner

The ceiling air conditioner is installed when the Armstrong type suspension is not yet fully mounted. So, at the place of installation of the air conditioning module there are no tile segments. For the frame, only suspensions are equipped in concrete overlap. In this case, the holding aluminum or fibrous tiles of the frame are planned, but not collected or installed partially installed.

Often, the air conditioner is placed with a new ceiling. with a overhaul of the building or building. To remove the ceiling inner unit, remove the adjacent sections of the suspended ceiling adjacent to it. Then dismantle the block. Maximum accuracy is required. the walls on which it is based on may not be nearby. When the air conditioner is installed in the middle of the ceiling, next to the lamp. Do not forget to install the ceiling sections on their previous places.

The dimensions of the inner block

Before installing the internal block of the air conditioner, you must ask its size. This is especially important during repair, because modern technologies quite often provide for the installation of suspended ceiling systems, which can affect the height of the ceiling, as well as the parameters of the described device.

On sale you can find non.standard models that have unique sizes. The length of the block usually varies from 700 to 800 mm. Products up to 900 mm are found somewhat less common. Experts recommend taking into account the average length of 770 mm.

As for the height, it is usually equal to 250-290 mm. The average value is 270 mm. The depth is not very interested in consumers, but it reaches 240 mm. The minimum value is equivalent to 170 mm. From this we can conclude that the average size of the internal unit of the air conditioner is 770 x 270 mm.

Knowing these parameters allows you to determine at what distance from the ceiling and walls to hang the equipment. There are a great many contradictions on this issue. In some instructions, the minimum distance is 50 mm, while in others it reaches 300 mm. The optimal value is equal to the number from 60 to 150 mm.

Experts usually install air conditioning with a remoteness of 100 mm. Before mounting the internal block of the air conditioner, it is important to take into account whether there will be curtains in the room. The step between them and the split system is usually 150 mm. You can increase this value to 250 mm. The average distance from the block to the wall is 400 mm.

Classification of internal blocks

In order to disassemble, it is necessary to determine the type of internal block of the air conditioner, which can be represented:

The most common are wall.mounted models that are more accessible in cost and are sometimes also called household. Their installation can be carried out in a room of any purpose, and power in the range of 7 kW allows you to cool up to 70 m 2 areas. Such blocks are usually installed in the upper part of the wall, not far from the window, since the design provides for the presence of an external unit, and the nodes must be interconnected.

Wall air conditioners are not able to supply fresh air into the premises, since this requires a separate ventilation system. If you wondered how to disassemble the internal block of the air conditioner, you can familiarize yourself with this information below. It is for such a device that recommendations are given in the article.

In addition to domestic air conditioners, some manufacturers supply semi.industrial devices to the market, the power of which reaches 10 kW. Outwardly, they look like traditional split systems, but the parameters are the floor of industrial equipment.

Channel air conditioners are installed with suspended ceilings that hide them completely. The distribution of chilled air is provided using heat.insulated ducts, which are located in the inter.ground space. Such designs can cool several rooms at once. The capacity of the equipment reaches 25 kW, which allows you to cool the cottage or several rooms of the apartment. As the main feature of the channel systems, the possibility of supplying fresh air to the volume is guaranteed by the functioning of full ventilation.

Cassette air conditioners require a suspended ceiling during installation. When compared with channel structures, cassette distribute cooled air through the lower part of the block. It is closed with a decorative lattice and usually has the following dimensions: 600 x 600 and 1200 x 600 mm.

How the air conditioner works and what does it consist of

Several varieties of air conditioners are presented on the market. At first glance it seems that they are all completely different. But it is not so. The principle of operation is similar in them. The simplest and most budget options are window and mobile air conditioners. Both options consist of only one block.

The window air conditioner is mounted in the window opening, and a mobile air conditioner can work in any places where there is an open window or ajar door to withdraw the hose out.

A more complex unit is a split system. They require certain knowledge and skills to install them. It consists of two blocks: internal and external.

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  • A compressor designed to maintain the flow of compressed gas. Freon.
  • The four.way valve responsible for the distribution of freon when cooling or heating.
  • Fan.
  • Blowing capacitor.
  • Radiator. It cools and condensation of freon gas
  • Filters of the freon system, the task of which is to protect foreign particles into the compressor
  • Steper compound, to which copper tubes for the vault with the inner block are connected
  • Front Panel.
  • Deep cleaning filter.
  • Radiator.
  • Fragmentation.
  • Horizontal blinds.
  • Indicator panel.
  • Filter filter.
  • Fan.
  • Vertical blinds designed to adjust the orientation of air flow masses.
  • Pallet for condensate. From there, condensate is output through the drainage hose.
  • Management payment.
  • Steper compound.

How the air conditioning is disassembled

If when the air conditioning system is turned on, the stream of cooling air carries with it a sour, stagnant mold, then you should think about its cleaning. For this, it is necessary to rinse the external and internal block split systems.

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In order to solve such a problem, you can use two ways: attract a specialist, but this is a very costly way or to disassemble the internal block of the air conditioner with your own hands to perform cleaning work.

The latter method is more preferable, as it will save a significant amount of money, and the acquired useful experience will have to be by the way in the future.

Why to serve more often is profitable

Unlike old climatic technology, modern split systems can not only cool, but also heat the air. Therefore, the owners of apartments and private houses often use them for heating in winter until the street temperature drops below. 5 ° C. Accordingly, the main elements of the air conditioner are filters, heat exchangers and fans are polluted twice as fast as. There are other good arguments in favor of timely maintenance:

  • To your health. It is exposed to the harmful effects of fungi and mold, setting and actively propagating inside too dusty unit. The sign is an unpleasant musty smell.
  • Dirt accumulated in the external and internal radiator prevents the normal passage of the air flow, which is why the efficiency of the entire installation is reduced. With unchanging heat or cold, electricity is consumed more.
  • It is one thing. a narrow.zone flushing, and quite another. cleaning and antibacterial treatment of a highly contaminated internal module. You will make the first yourself, and for the second you will have to call a master with specialized equipment (high pressure washing, steam generator), which will fly into a penny to you.

Note. Reducing the efficiency of any refrigerator leads to an increase in the load on the compressor. the most expensive part. It turns out that the heat exchangers clogged with mud close the moment of its repair, or even replacement.

It makes no sense to develop the topic of harmful microorganisms living inside dirty air conditioners and harm people’s health, since this fact has long been known to everyone. But to inform you how much professional cleaning of split systems with disinfection costs in your region will be useful. After all, if the evaporator has not been washed for several years, then the call of a specialist becomes inevitable.

Comparative example. The cost of comprehensive cleaning of household air conditioning systems with a capacity of up to 5 kW lies in the range of 2-3 thousand. (35-53. e.). These are prices, in the regions they can be lower. If you wash the split with your own hands, then you calmly meet 5, maximum. 10 in. e., which you spend to buy a cleaner. Agree, independent prevention is much more profitable than service.

In the photo. applying the washing foam Bizol (price. about 6 in. e.)

Simple foam flushing

This method of removing dirt from the room module is very simple and available to everyone, including housewives. It is performed using detergents sold in aerosol spray cans (Liqui Moly, Plak, Bizol and the like). The technology is this:

  • Disconnect the device from the mains, open the lid and pull out the filters. Rinse them with running water and leave to dry.
  • Apply foam from the cylinder to the ribs of the evaporator and withstand the time specified in the instructions (from 10 to 30 minutes).
  • Install the filters and turn on the split system in heating or ventilation mode (depending on the recommendations on the spray can) and let it work for half an hour. Improte the room.

How foam.free air conditioning is made at home, clearly demonstrated on

Unfortunately, this method cannot be called effective, because it allows you to rinse only the heat exchanger. Fan turbine, drainage bath and hidden cavities of the device remain dirty. Therefore, further we propose to consider how to correctly clean the blocks of the split system, after completing the disassembly.

The device of the internal unit split systems: how to disassemble equipment for cleaning and repair

Cleaning the air conditioner should not be reduced only to the care of external elements. Dust penetrates everywhere, accumulates and interferes with the normal operation of the mechanisms. You can invite masters from the service center for maintenance, but many craftsmen cope with this task on their own.

In order to carry out all the maintenance work independently, you need to know the device of the internal unit split systems. We will tell you all about the design of climate technology. We will give recommendations according to which it was possible without fears to make out the unit, clean and collect again.

Basic elements of the internal block

Although the device of specific models from different manufacturers differs, the principal scheme according to which they collect such climatic equipment have common basic elements.

The internal block of a modern split system consists of:

  • front panel;
  • filter elements;
  • fans and evaporator;
  • engine;
  • blinds;
  • drainage systems;
  • indicator panel and t.P.

To correctly disassemble the device, you need to carefully disconnect individual elements in the correct sequence. First you should carefully study all the accompanying documents received when buying a device.

They can find a lot of useful information on how to disassemble the internal unit of this split systems to perform maintenance activities. If for some reason the documentation is absent, it makes sense to look for the necessary information on the Internet.

Panasonic air conditioning management guidelines and schemes. Repair information for electronics specialists

Note. The results may differ depending on use, as well as seasonal and surrounding variables (temperature and humidity). Nanoe and Nanoe X inhibit the activity or growth of viruses, but do not prevent infection. The effect of deodoration depends on the environment (temperature and humidity), working time, smell and type of fabric. Does not remove toxic substances from cigarettes (carbon monoxide, etc. D.). Continuously generated odors (for example, the smells of building materials and pets) are not completely removed. All images are shown only for illustration.

Panasonic Air Conditioner : Easy Installations and Service Feature (Short)

Note. Product models may vary depending on the country.

MUSSIAMA, IVAO (Department of Professional Hygiene, National Institute of Public Health, Japan). “Air and people: from a physiological point of view” (1999). https: // ci.NII.AC.JP/Naid/110008447936/Environmental Environment of Japan. Environmental hygiene guidelines for thermal diseases, 2018., p. 32, Fig.3-2. http: // www.WBGT.ENV.go.JP/PDF/Manual/Heatillness_manual_3-1.PDF

After you get access to all components of the internal unit of the split system, you can proceed to clean them. For this, it is not recommended to use hard brushes or metal objects that can ruin the heat exchanger or freon highway.

Cleaning air filters

It is not difficult to clean the filter in the air conditioner with your own hands, the main thing is to remember that this procedure should be carried out regularly, at least once a week. To remove accumulated dirt, it is recommended to soak the filter elements in water with foam from the detergent for 30 minutes. And then rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry well before installed in the air conditioner.

It should be noted that it is difficult to clean air air conditioners of channel, cassette or ceiling type, because the internal block of such devices is in the ceiling.

Fan cleaning

The fan of the internal unit of the air conditioner also needs regular cleaning. It is a roller that drives chilled air into the room. To complete the task, you can dismantle the fan or wash it without extracting it from the body. If the second option is selected, to remove dirt, the blades should be treated with soapy solution, and then turn on the split system for the minimum power.

Be prepared for the fact that the garbage accumulated on the blades will fly to the floor, so pre.shake the part of the apartment under air conditioning with old newspapers. After 15 minutes, turn off the device and remove the remaining dirt with a soft sponge or brush.

Removing dirt from ventilation holes

The upper panel of the internal unit is equipped with holes designed to get into the split system. You can clean them with a rag moistened with soapy solution.

Cleaning the heat exchanger

If the owner of the air conditioner decided to monitor the cleanliness of the device on his own and perform his maintenance without calling the master, do not forget about regular care for the heat exchanger. It is necessary to remove the accumulated dirt from this part of the device at least once a year.

To get to the heat exchanger, you will have to remove the grate. After this pollution, it is easy to remove with a vacuum cleaner or a rag moistened with a soap solution

But you need to do this carefully, since you can easily damage the heat exchanger or get hurt yourself

In the process of cleaning, special attention should be paid to the appearance of the heat exchanger. If traces of corrosion are detected, it is necessary to contact the service center, since such damage is dangerous with Freon leakage

Removing an unpleasant odor

To eliminate the unpleasant odor, which over time may appear from the air conditioner, it is necessary to conduct antiseptic cleaning. For this, 0.5 liters of liquid antiseptic on an alcohol.based antiseptic (can be bought at a pharmacy) is poured into a bottle with a spray and sprayed near the radiator with the air conditioner. Small drops drag out inward and after ten minutes the unpleasant odor disappears.

Cleaning the drainage system

The drainage system of the air conditioner also needs to be cleaned. Otherwise, the device will flow, and the outgoing air will acquire a putrefactive smell.

The cause of clogging of the drainage tube can be both dust and mold. To clean it, you use one of the following methods:

  • A soap solution is passed through the evaporator, which washed out dirt and dissolves fat;
  • They blow out a detachable tube (drainage) with a vacuum cleaner, however, this option is applicable only when the drainage system is not very clogged;
  • The fully disconnected drain tube is washed and blown over the entire length, treated with a disinfectant (this is the only way to clean the system from severe pollution).

For disinfection of the tube, various products are used, such as chlorhexidine.

To check the quality of cleaning, you can pour 1.5 liters of water into the drainage system. With a positive result, the liquid will freely flow out.

Codes of faults Panasonic

Knowing error codes allows you to repair the washing machines Panasonic with your own hands. Error codes characteristic of Panasonic Na-16VX1, Panasonic Na-14VX1 and other models:

Error codes Meaning
U11 The washing program does not end.
U12 When performing the program, an error occurred.
U13 There was a failure in the control board.
U14 The voltage in the mains does not correspond to the specified parameters in the smell.
U18 Incorrect signals of sensors.
H01 Sensor malfunction.
H04 Program failure. The main module failed.
H05 Incorrect signals come to the control board.
H07, h17 Sensors send incorrect data.
H09 There was a tire error during data transfer.
H18 Overload see.
H21 Merciful modes.
H27, H53 The program does not start.
H23, H25, H29, H41, H52 Failure of the main module or sensors.
H43, H46, H51, H55 Emergency situation.

Dismantling of the air conditioner whose shaft is pulled out on the right

To assemble the air conditioner, we perform the described operations in the reverse order.

Therefore, we have a rather long, but quite detailed instruction on how to disassemble the air conditioner.

Dismantling of an external module

Dismantling a mobile or window air conditioner does not take much time. just remove the device from the window or remove the duct. When disassembling the split system, the entire refrigerant must be preserved.

The connecting pipes through which the freon is transported have a different diameter. A thin channel is used to transport liquid refrigerant. A large tube is designed to pump a gaseous freon. When disassembling the air conditioner, it is necessary to “send” the refrigerant to the outer block. After that, you can turn off the main channels. To pump refrigerant, it is necessary to fasten a tube with a liquid freon that walking from the outer block into the room when working unit. The device rolls a gaseous substance into the outer block in 1 minute. After that, immediately turn off the device.


Dismantling the external unit of the air conditioner is carried out by two people. Thus, you can exclude unnecessary risks and reduce work time.

After disconnecting the device from the network, turn off the cables, marking the terminal.

Copper channels through which the coolant passes can be carefully straightened yourself. Together with them, an electric cable is displayed into the room. It is fastened to the end of the tube. Then it is necessary to unscrew the nuts of the outdoor unit mount. Remove the block together. Brackets are removed from the wall last.

The removed external unit requires storage and transportation in an upright position. To exclude possible damage, it is placed in a box with foam.

Removing the compressor

In some cases, only disassembling the outer unit is required, for example, when it is necessary to adjust the compressor operation. In this case, the internal block remains in place. The main task is to remove the compressor correctly:

  • Remove the lid of the outer unit;
  • disconnect the pressure and absorbing nozzles;
  • Disconnect electric cables;
  • unscrew the elements of the fan and capacitor mounting;
  • remove the capacitor from the case;
  • Remove the compressor supports and the part itself.

Observing this sequence of actions, you can reduce the risk of damage to pipelines and gain access to other elements located in the case.