Care for a dangerous razor
Dangerous razor is one of the best inventions of mankind when it comes to men’s shaving. It is she who gives the most pure result that persists for a long time. This is exactly the tool that can serve for decades and at the same time look like new, and additional devices and supplies for it is almost not required for it.
In order to enjoy perfect shaving for many years and preserve the original type of dangerous razor, it is necessary to follow certain rituals and rules of care. After all, many owners after the first application are faced with the problem of the appearance of black and dark spots on the blades. This problem is solved if regularly and correctly care for your razor tool.
The most important thing for a blade dangerous razor is the lack of moisture. Despite the fact that a large amount of water is used during shaving, the razor should directly relate to it as little as possible.
It is best if the water touches the razor’s canvas directly, reaching the heel, but without going on it. In order to protect steel and pen from the quick failure, the appearance of rust and dark spots, during the shaving procedure and immediately after it, certain rules must be followed:
- When washing under the tap, expose a blade directly under a thin stream of water, upward. Make sure that the liquid does not spray, touching the rest of the tool.
- Help yourself rinse the foam in addition with two fingers. Wiping movements, placing the blade on one side, and large on the other, spend one to twice once.
- Carry out mandatory additional drying immediately after shaving. Do not leave the tool without care for even a few minutes.
Professional barbers and experienced users of dangerous razors advise generally to limit the contact of steel and water as much as possible. It is necessary to ensure that even in the process of direct shaving, the liquid does not touch the razor or does not remain on it for a long time. The rules of experienced barber will help to preserve the perfect appearance:
- Erl. a metallic not sharpened part on which the stigma is located should be dry constantly. Removing moisture from it is completely very difficult. If water gets to the axial pin, rust is quickly formed. The razor will darken, and then corrosion will spread along it. Complete disassembly and professional cleaning of the hearth of rust will be able to help.
- At the time of shaving, there should be a small towel at hand. It is most convenient to place it on your knees if you shave sitting, or on your shoulder, if you prefer to stand. It is convenient to wipe your fingers about it after touching water or soap foam. Wipe your fingers carefully before taking the hilt of razors in the hand. Fingers constantly touch Erl, if they turn out to be wet, then the stigma on it will quickly darken.
- Protect the handle from moisture. Natural materials and some types of plastic from regular interaction with water, and then drying change the appearance, darken, change the original shape. It is almost impossible to restore such a pen.
- A great way to protect against water is paper wipes. They can be used in the process instead of a liquid, removing them with a soap foam from the blade.
A neat handling of dangerous razor in the shaving process will allow it to use it for many years without additional complex procedures and appeal to professionals to remove raid and rusty.
Important about replacing the blade
Blades come from stainless and carbon steel.
- Carbon blade can be sharpened independently.
- The material is lended towards corrosion and rust, and the stainless steel for a long time preserved the perfect look.
- Carbon steel is suitable for 1-2 times of use, stainless blades are designed for 3-8 procedures.
- If you change the blade in time, then the shaving process will be safe, the skin will not be irritated.
- When choosing a blade, you need to carefully read the recommendations and adhere to the service life.
Is it possible to replace the blade of a disposable machine
If the device implies a removable head cover, then it is possible to change the blade. To do this, the razor is spinned, the old stupid blade is taken out. Parts of the device are washed in a disinfector and dried.
How to extend the life of a disposable razor
To maintain the severity of the blade for longer, you need to drag the blade after each use. As a rule, modern blades are not covered with the usual method, but nevertheless, this can be done at home.
To sharpen the blade, you need to put old jeans on a solid surface, draw a blade along 15-20 times, repeat on each side. Do not press too much on the machine.
How to save the razor blade sharp
Preservation of a few drops of oil (children’s or etheric) will help maintain the severity of the blade. But pre.blades are washed, dried and disinfected.
How can you disinfect the blade
You can get rid of microbes by using ordinary alcohol or hydrogen peroxide.
- The product is poured into a container in such quantities that it is conveniently immersed in the head of the razor.
- Having rinked a little, removed and dried naturally.
How to remove rust from a razor blade
Before proceeding to the removal of rust, it is worth washing the blade under water, then carefully disassemble the razor and remove the blade. Then proceed to the removal of rust:
- Lower the blade into a bowl with vinegar for 1-2 minutes.
- Mixing sea salt with vinegar to a thick paste rub the blade with a brush.
- Then washed under running water, you can add a little soap.
- If necessary, the process is repeated.
- The blade is dried on a towel, wiped with alcohol and placed back in a razor.
How to pull a blade out of a disposable razor
To get the blade from a disposable razor, you need to warm the machine a little over the lighter fire. It is important to ensure not to melt completely. Then the pliers take out the blade, initially the upper, then the subsequent. If the blade does not move, you need to re.carefully heat over the fire.
What is bad rust
In itself, it is not dangerous for the body. If you eat something sliced with a rusty knife, a person will not die. But the corrosion process negatively affects the blade itself. It destroys the structure of the blade and destroys the cutting edge. Or the blade may break at all.
Maybe I will not open America with this point, but still:
- Do not leave a knife on the street where it is exposed to prolonged effects of precipitation. Also, after washing the blade, it is recommended to always wipe the blade;
- It is not recommended to place knives in a drum of a washing machine with food remnants. In the process of washing, the blade will be subjected to the oxidation process;
- If there are rust foci in the washing machine, then in the process of washing it can also get to the knife;
- Rusty water pipes can also provoke the formation of a raid on the blade;
- Often, blades react very violently to fruit acids, salt or vinegar.
Rusting rust with a knife folk remedies
There is an opinion that the blade used daily can not rust. But this is incorrect, various alloys can respond to water in different ways. Therefore, after each use of the knife, it is recommended to wipe it dry.
During hunting or other events, the blade is sometimes just no time to wipe or dry, it is immediately cleaned in the sheath. But this should not be done, on some alloys a small speck may appear in a couple of hours.
Which can then grow into a full.fledged focus of corrosion. But in this case you should not panic. Let’s try to consider folk remedies with which you can remove the rust.
Salt and lemon juice
This method will help to cope with a very old rust. It is necessary to pour salt on the hearth of rust and drop the lemon. You should wait until the salt dissolves. Then half the potato with half the damage site. And in conclusion, all this is rinsed with water and wiped dry.
How to choose and use a stone for sharpening razor
Starting to work, it is important to make sure as an abrasive stone, otherwise the angle of sharpening will change, as a result, the cutting part of the blade will be processed at different angles.
A synthetic stone is suitable for home use. with a relatively low cost, it provides a good result. Such stones have certain sizes: 50×150 mm, 60×180 mm or 70×200 mm.
To control the state of the stone, a reference straight surface is used, for example, a ruler. Surfaces combine and look at the lumen. If the gaps are detected, the stone is brought to the desired state using powdery silicon carbide.
In addition, the following requirements are presented to the stone material:
At the beginning of the work, it is necessary to make sure that the blade is correctly installed. First of all, it is necessary to check that its entire length is located on the stone. If the stone has a smaller size of the razor. In addition, you need to make sure that the canvas is installed exactly in the horizontal direction.
The properly installed razor begins to move evenly on the surface of the stone. At the end of each move, it is turned over, paying attention to the blade does not hurt the stone. The use of a special “X-Pattern” template will facilitate this operation.
When working, you should not make significant efforts, otherwise the cutting edge will bend up. This will lead to the fact that instead of a flat surface, burrs are formed. While moving, the razor must be held by one hand by the handle, and pressed with the other to the stone, adjusting the uniformity of pressure. When sharpening the blade, it is recommended to adhere to the golden mean to avoid its excessive acuity. Subsequently, shaving with such an instrument will lead to irritation and micro.cutting. To avoid this, you need to periodically monitor the degree of lining.
A common defect. concavity. is usually corrected on the sling. In this case, the razor is placed on the canvas with a wide side, and then, slightly pressed, carried out until its end. After that, the blade is turned over the crest and the reverse passage is made. When correcting concave, as well as the implementation of other argument operations, a strong press of the blade must be avoided.
The subtleties of sharpening dangerous razor on the stone
The final stage of sharpening razor is the editing. It requires a special belt (sling), one side of which is made of leather, the other from fabric. First, on the tissue side of the razor is cleaned of contaminants, and then on a smooth leather surface is actually a refinement is performed.
For slings, horseback or cow’s skin is suitable, however, Yuf is considered the best. There are two types of belts:
The slings of the first type (boards) are convenient to use beginners, since the canvas is well fixed with a certain degree of tension. Typically, borders are made of certain wood: boxwood, birch, linden, lemon tree, etc. The main requirements are the lack of irregularities and resin inclusions.
Having mastered the editing on the board, you can proceed to work with suspended belts:
- When working, the use of abrasive (polishing) pasta or special pencil is required. Some modern slings do not need this.
- When choosing a belt, it is recommended to take into account the length of the razor blade.
- As an abrasive, it is recommended to use diamond polishing paste, a paste of goy, as well as abrasives of the German company Dovo.
Fix the end of the string of the belt and hold tightly
Before work, it is very important to fix the belt reliably. At home, a suspension sling can be attached to door handles, heating appliances, kitchen barns, a Swedish wall, etc.P.
- The sling should be directed down at an angle of approximately 45 °.
- Draw a razor along the sling in the direction of yourself.
- During refinement, the razor blade is directed to themselves, and the base is from themselves. In this case, the edge should touch the belt so that the sharp angle is obtained.
- You need to start moving, applying an insignificant effort. At this moment, the blade should “lie down” on the belt.
|Turn the razor at the end of the belt sling||After the first passage is completed, the blade must be turned over. The razor should still be pressed to the sling, but turned on the basis of “to himself”. This is a rather complicated manipulation, therefore, to consolidate the skill, it is recommended to practice old, unsuitable for use, blade.|
|Tighten the razor to yourself||Next, the blade should be laid on the belt, withstanding the same degree of pressing and the same angle as at the previous stage. The movements are performed all the way, without tearing off the razor from the belt. At the end of the passage, the blade should be turned along the sling, and then perform another 10 to 15 repetitions.|
|Use the “x” template on narrow belts||When refinement, it is convenient to use the X-Shabel, especially in cases where the blade is wider than the belt. During the passage, the razor must be moved and at the same time shift “from yourself” to the right side, and then return to yourself. As a result, x-shaped movement is performed.|
How to remove rust from metal at home?
There are two main ways. This is mechanical and chemical processing. If we talk about the advantage of a particular option, the first is considered preferable, because the metal is not exposed to aggressive compositions. However, at home, they still rely on the help of chemicals more often.
Mechanical ways to get rid of “rye”
This method implies physical labor and the use of various tools and equipment. However, before giving preference to this option, it is necessary to evaluate the degree of metal damage. the area and depth of the oxidized area.
Brushes with metal bristles are the simplest tools that can guarantee a good result if the processing surface is small. Brushes that have a brass of brass are considered the best products. The cleaning process is as follows:
- First, the element is securely fixed in a vice;
- The rusted surface is treated with a brush, circular movements;
- Cleaned rusty chips are removed, the operation is continued until the effect is achieved.
The duration of work and the result depend only on the area of the lesion. It does not recommend cleaning large areas in this way, since such large.scale work will take a lot of time and effort.
Purification with nozzles
Tool nozzles. the best way out. The use of nozzles, which are installed on corner grinders, drills or screwdrivers are much more effective. They can be radial or end. In this case, it becomes possible to relatively quickly clean the sections of a large area from rust. However, such an operation requires the experience of such work. Reliable consolidation of the processed part, the ability to correctly hold the tool is also a prerequisite.
This method is used if the damage to the metal is small and its depth is minimal. Use ordinary food foil for work. To do this, a piece of aluminum material is rolled into a small ball, then placed it in a container with a warm 3%vinegar. Rust is wiped with circular movements until the surface is cleared of plaque.
This option can theoretically be called a way to remove rust from metal at home, although such devices are used in the production of metal structures. Sand flying out of the nozzle at high speed quickly beats off rust, so the master needs maximum protection. The main disadvantage of this option is the high price of the equipment: to purchase it for infrequent homework is simply impractical.
This is the best answer to the question of how and how to remove rust from metal at home. Such processing will give a chance to get rid of a raid relatively quickly and without excessive efforts. There are many options for chemical “release”, so they all deserve a separate consideration.
How to remove rust from metal at home?
If the area of metal damage is not very large, then even one selected means can cope with the problem. Otherwise, most likely, you will have to resort to multi.stage treatment with several drugs.
You can save the metal from rust with these chemical compounds. The assortment of such “assistants” is quite wide, so it is better to bring the most popular of them. To work with acids, you need to use gloves and respirator.
Acetic acid or essence
Quickly remove rust from metal at home will make it possible for this concentrated acid, but with very serious lesions, it is recommended to replace it with vinegar essence (70%). Small details are completely immersed in the liquid, leave them for 20-40 minutes. For large elements, the essence is poured into a spray gun, and then sprayed on the surface. The second method is the processing of the product with a fabric moistened in the product.
This is the second option where ordinary foods are used. For cleansing of rust, the share of citric acid should be at least 5%. The metal product is completely immersed in acid, left in it for several hours. Then it is removed from the liquid and treated with a metal brush. This combination of methods guarantees the effectiveness of cleaning.
Duet: vinegar and lemon juice
In this case, two strong funds are used, which means that it can be expected that the desired result will be achieved in a shorter time. Both ingredients are mixed in the same proportions, then applied with a brush, sponge or rag. As a rule, a few hours later, rust, it is possible to completely get rid of. The processed product is cleaned with a brush, washed with water and wiped.
Hydrochloric acid and urotropin
First, 5 ml of the substance is diluted in half a glass of water, then a gram of urotropin (metenamin) is added. Small objects are entirely immersed in the solution, lubricated areas of large products with a brush. Withstand them in a liquid for at least 60 minutes. After an hour, the metal is washed, then cleaned with a hard brush.
Phosphorus, wine acid and butanol
In order to remove rust from metal at home, you can use a mixture of acids. phosphorus and wine. The first connection uses different concentrations. Any solution will “work”. both 15%and 30%. The composition includes a liter of phosphoric acid, 15 ml of wine and 5 ml of Butanol. Apply it with a brush.
Lactic acid, paraffin, vaseline oil
In this case, acid (50 ml) is mixed with liquid paraffin (100 g). The composition is evenly distributed on the surface and left for 15-20 minutes. This time is necessary so that rust is separated from the metal. The purified structure is necessarily treated with vaseline oil.
Such tubers contain oxalic acid, so this is another potential that can save a metal tool from small spots of rust. Potatoes are cut along, sprinkled with salt so that moisture appears in the section. They rub the spot, or leave potatoes on it for 15-30 minutes.
Tomatoes, tomato juice or ketchup
One cannot but agree that the use of these products in this capacity is a rather unusual solution. Tomato puree, juice or ketchup is applied to the affected area with a brush with synthetic bristles, thoroughly rubbed. The composition is left for 20 minutes or half an hour, then it is washed off.
In a glass of water, 4 tablespoons of substances are placed, then a metal element is placed in a container. After 30 minutes it is taken out. If the rust is very eaten, then the part is additionally treated with a hard brush.
150 ml of acid is stirred in a liter of water. The part is immersed and maintained in liquid for an hour. In this case, one recommendation must be followed: the solution is recommended to periodically stir.
To remove rust, a 5%solution is used. It is applied to the rusted area, distributing the composition with a sponge, then left for an hour or two. The processed element is cleaned and wiped.
Help of improvised means
Vinegar and limanic acid are far from the only food products that are successfully used in the release of metal from rust. The same ordinary means will help to get rid of it.
This is another “exotic” composition from rust, but they say that it works. In this case, the procedure is as simple as possible. First, fat is “mined” from capsules, then it is applied with a brush to areas conquered by rust.
There are phosphoric acids in these liquids, so lemonades are also able to cope with small spots of rust. However, there is still no great hopes to lay on them.
It is diluted with water so that the mixture acquires the consistency of the gruel. Then it is distributed along the damaged surface, simultaneously rubbing into the rusted areas of metal. The mass is left for 20-30 minutes, then it is removed, and the “battlefield” is cleaned with “crumpled” aluminum foil.
Folk remedies of struggle
You can quickly and safely cope with rust with the help of improvised means. The most unexpected and inexpensive compounds come to the rescue, including acetic acid, hydrogen peroxide and even carbonated drinks such as Coca-Cola, but in order for these products to affect, it is necessary to apply them according to the instructions.
How to remove acetic acid?
For cleaning, it is recommended to use the essence of a concentration of 70%.
Trick for Removing Rust on a Bike
Mode of application:
- Fold in a suitable container a tool that needs to be cleaned.
- Completely pour it with acetic acid.
- Close the capacity with a lid and leave for several days. The more rust, the more time it takes.
- After the cleaning is completed, it is necessary to rinse the tool in a solution of baking soda. It neutralizes acid.
After such processing, you can continue to use the devices. Essence cleaning the effectiveness is very high. It allows you to cope even with a thick layer of rust. If it is small, then you can use the table vinegar or lemon juice.
It is not recommended to use vinegar for cleaning aluminum instruments, since it leads to dissolution of the epoxy layer and damage to the structure of the metal.
If the rust on the tool is stuck in pieces, then the plots can be cleaned with ordinary food foil. It is used as a scraper.
Citric acid and hydrogen peroxide
You can get rid of rust using citric acid and pharmacy peroxide of hydrogen. To prepare the solution, you need:
Instructions for use:
- All components are mixed with each other.
- Put the tool in a suitable container, pour it with solution.
- Leave them for a day under a closed lid.
- After the specified time, the solution is drained. The tool is washed with clean water, dried and used for its intended purpose.
In the process of cleaning, the solution will become dark. This is the norm and indicates the effectiveness of the composition. With it, you can cope with a small layer of rust.
If the tool is greatly spoiled, the concentration of the solution must be increased. In advanced cases, they refuse to add water altogether, dissolving citric acid in peroxide.
About how to remove rust with citric acid and peroxide, will tell
How to remove Coca-Cola?
Coca-Cola is a popular carbonated drink that can be used to remove rust. The effect is achieved due to the content of orthophosphoric acid in it, which corrodes the oxides.
Using Vinegar to EASILY remove rust from any tool
The next day the part is removed, rinsed with clean water and dried.
Coca-Cola is one of the budget and effective means for removing rust. A similar effect is sprite and imaginative.
You can cope with rust using baking soda. Alkaline solution will help get rid of a small layer of corrosion without harm to metal. The effectiveness of the method is explained by the active action of sodium.
- Prepare the required amount of soda gruel by mixing powder with water. It should be moderately thick, remind the consistency of the pasta.
- Using a sponge, apply a paste to the tool.
- Leave the mixture to exert an hour.
- Rinse the product and wipe it with dry soft matter.
- If necessary, the procedure can be repeated.
Soda is not a highly effective way to combat rust, but a small layer can be removed in this way.
To remove rust, you can use zinc chloride. Apply it as follows:
- 20 g of chloride zinc are dissolved in 200 ml of water, the product is prepared in the quantity in which this is necessary;
- Pour the solution into a suitable container, lower the tool into it;
- leave to have an impact on an hour;
- rinse the tool with clean water and wipe with dry matter.
Zinc chloride contains free hydrochloric acid, which has the ability to dissolve rust. The main thing is not to overexpose the composition so that the metal itself does not blacken.
The method is quite effective, zinc chloride allows you to cope even with large areas of corrosion.
If improvised funds do not cope with rust, you can use store trains. The following remoters relieve corrosion well:
Neomid 570. The concentrated composition contains a complex, solvent and corrosion inhibitor. The composition is applied to the problem area with a synthetic sponge and left for half an hour.
You can purchase compositions in construction stores and in stores for motorists, as well as on the Internet.
Care and sharpening of dangerous razor
The new razor purchased in the store is not sharpened completely and is not suitable for shaving, why you must first sharpen it. To do this, we lay on the absolutely even edge of the table (this is important!) a sheet of sandpaper P 400 (zero), put a razor blade on a sheet with all the plane and circular movements, clockwise, pull the blade. The blade has such a shape that by putting it on an even surface with the entire plane, only the butt of the blade and the cutting edge of the razor at a certain angle will touch the surface, so that errors with such sharpening are excluded. Sharpowing on the one hand continue continuously for five to seven minutes. Then we repeat the same procedure with the other side of the blade. After sharpening, rule the blade on the bar with the skin and paste of goy, holding the razor with the direction with the blade to itself, at least fifty movements from itself on one side.
After that, we repeat the procedure on the other side of the bar, where the fabric of hb with talcum sprinkled on it is located.
Below I will bring how to make such a bar. Now the last stroke remained: we sprinkle the stuck into the dust and, carefully, without touching the cutting edge, we wipe the blade on a piece of soft fabric.
Amend the razor not only before beating, but also after. And at least once a month, conduct a capital sharpening on zero sandpaper P 400. Do not forget to wipe with chalk and oil. Observing all these simple rules, your dangerous razor will be correctly served for many years.
How to protect the blade from corrosion?
So that the problem of the appearance of a rusty plaque on the knife blade does not bother, it is necessary to protect steel from exposure to adverse factors.
First of all, moisture applies to these. Immediately after using the knives, it is necessary to rinse and wipe dry towel with a towel.
Prevention requires compliance with storage rules. A sharp tool is stored in oiled paper or special stands. This must be done for safety reasons, as well as for the sake of protecting the blade from moisture.
If the knife is used for technical purposes, it can be wiped with kerosene. If this substance is not possible, the blade is covered with a thin layer of wax.
To prevent the onset of corrosion and apply the remedy for cleansing in time, it is recommended to use the knife as often as possible. Even for decorative products hidden in the scabbard, it is necessary to periodically conduct an audit.
If water has got into a folding knife hinge, it is advisable to remove it with a hairdryer. Otherwise, an inaccessible raw area will be a place of corrosion on.
To remove rusty traces from the knife, you can use any suitable method. When choosing a product, it is worth focusing on the degree of pollution, financial expenses and the possibility of applying the method.
In any case, it is advisable to take into account additional recommendations that will facilitate the cleaning process and help to accelerate it:
- If the rusty plaque is significant and after the first processing does not disappear completely, it is necessary to repeat the cleansing with the same tool or choose another.
- If the corrosion process has gone far and a solid dense raid of rust has formed on the knife, then it is advisable to first remove it mechanically (sandpaper), and then complete the cleaning by any liquid.
- When using any chemical reagents, it is necessary to wear rubber gloves to protect the skin.
- After the complete removal of rusty traces, the blade is thoroughly washed with water and well dried. The presence of moisture can again initiate corrosion.