Following dreams. Fallowing My Dreams
Forms from Smily. Blog about needlework, Victorian era and delicious food. Blog by Smily About Handmade Things, Victorian Time and Tasty Food.
I adore knitwear clothes! It is soft, comfortable, beautiful, well erased and it is not necessary to iron. In general, alone solid advantages!
But when sewing on a conventional sewing machine, I have repeatedly arise with tension. The fabric either stretched, or, on the contrary, began to wrinkle. About making the perfect seam from the first time, there was no speech!
So it continued exactly until I did not read the advice to use paper in some of the British blogs. That paper that is put in shoe boxes. I’m not even sure how it is called. Soft, thin, but not tracing and not cigarette. This paper creates real wonders!
This method can be sewed absolutely any seams on absolutely any knitted fabric. Including the treatment of the neck. And the last item is probably the most pleasant. 🙂
Here it is, our Savior! I found myself in an ordinary shoe store, where I asked to collect paper for me during a couple of days. Usually they just throw it out.
Put under the cloth along the desired seam direction. Better if 1-2 cm paper will be 1-2 cm on both sides of the seam.
Lower the needle directly through the cloth and paper. We sew straight through both layers of a small zigzag so that the cloth saves the opportunity to stretch.
Back view. Now the paper is easy to tear off. Small particles that can be stitching under stitches disappear during the first washing.
I don’t have a shown in the example of the dress on the model, since it is a gift, and he hasn’t reached the place yet, but I’ll show the Andreyku in a knitted sweater, stitched in the same way. And also the neck of a thin jersey dress.
I Like Jersey Clothes Very Much! IT IS Soft, Comfortable, Nice Looking, Easy To Wash and You Don’t Need Ironing It. Only Advantages, ISN’t IT?
But Sewing jersey ON A Simple Sewing Machine Can be A Bit Complicated. I HAD PROBLEMS WITH TOO MUCH TENSION, OR TOO LESS, NOT SAYING ABOUT TORTURES WITH A NEAT NECK BINDING!
IT ALL HAPPENED TILL A READ ONE COMMENT IN A BRITAIN BLOG SAYING ABOUT PAPER. That Paper They use IN Shoes Boxes. I don ‘ T Even Know How IT IS Called. Thin , Soft But Not Flimsy Or Tracing Paper. IT IS Real Miracle !
How to sew KNITS on a REGULAR sewing machine??? Here are simple STEPS and TIPS that I use!
You Can Use This Method for Any Seams At Any Stretchy Fabric, Including A Neck Binding. THE LAST REASON I LIKE THE BEST. 🙂
Here IT Is, The Paper! I Found Mine In A Shoe-Shop. I ASKED THERE TO KEEP THE PAPER FOR ME DURING SEVERAL DAYS. USUALY THEY JUST THROW IT AWAY.
Put On Piece Under The Fabric Along Your Seam. IT’s Better to Have 1-2 CM of Paper From Both Side Of the Seam.
Put Your Machine Needle Down Through Both Paper and Fabric Layers ToGether. SEW WITH A SMALL ZIGZAG STITCH TO KEEP FABRIC STRETCH.
HERE IS How It Will Look From Both Sides. Just Remove Your Paper From The Seam. IF Some Pieces Stack Under, They Will Be Washed Out During The Firt Washing.
I Can’t Show You The Dress in Total, Because IT IS A Gift and Not Received Yet. But This Andrew’s Pullover and My Dress Neck Are Also Sewn With Paper.
How to sew a knitwear? How to sew knitwear on the usual sewing machine?
And again in touch with you, dear sewing lovers, Milla-sidelnikova.com!
In contrast to woven, cutting parts cut from knitted canvases You can not connect the usual striking with straight stitches Sewing machine.
The difference between woven and knitted canvases is that the latter, significantly, to one degree or another, but more elastic than their woven fellows. And the usual racial line just will not endure this stretching. Sooner or later, but it will burst.
In addition, sections of most knitted canvases do not appear at all. But sometimes they are subject to twist.
Therefore, it is not necessary to talk about the traditional for woven materials to talk for woven materials; knitted materials are “way”.
Unlike woven materials, where overclocking lines are used on some products for simultaneous compound and cutting, all knitted materials, without exception, it is advisable to process in a similar way.
On some industrial and “home” production things, it is possible to meet simultaneous labeling of seams and cutting cutters made by the usual line of three-dimensional overlock.
But such treatment of sections are made rather due to the impossibility for some reason, for this period of time, to acquire proper equipment.
In the overwhelming majority of cases of the seams and sections of knitted tissues are treated with a special four-chain overlock line.
For very elastic knitted materials such as, for example, “oil”, biflex and t.D. There is a special, super elastic line.
And if you look at the front side on the seam and at the same time processed sections of a knitwear material, a conventional three-dimensional overlock line
it is immediately visible in what the difference between them.
Because of the rare and not dense weave of the threads of the looper and stitches, the usual line of the three-dimensional overlock, and the cuts are worse processing and the seams do not very durable.
As you can see, the usual three-dimensional incremental line is not quite suitable for the simultaneous execution of seams and processing of knitted materials.
Although, of course, nothing terrifying, if there is no estimation of another, simultaneously, the seams and sections of knitwear will be processed by simple conventional three-dimensional overlock.
Also flat overclocking lines are also used to heat up and simultaneously processing sections of knitwear.
A feature of each such stitch is that it is not just a barny and overclocking line at the same time, but also decorative. Ie, it performs seam after once, processes sections, and after performing all this it is also located on the front side of the product to decorate the product.
Most often for simultaneous laying of seam and treatment of knitted materials with an overlock, a textured thread is used.
It is light and elastic. Not reprinting on the front side. Does not waste seam and cut. Obediently follows the material, and not vice versa and t.D.
And what if overlock is not? Well, no person has no opportunity to tear money from the family to buy in general, the sewing instrument.
Then you can use the services of the studio of clothing indochive or contact the clothing repair workshop. There will be happy to take it for such an easy and fast type of work, and therefore earnings.
For the lack of overlock, the connection of knitted canvas sections can be performed using a zigzag lines of a conventional sewing machine. To perform a narrow zigzag seam, such parameters are displayed on the sewing machine. the stitch length is 1.5. 2 mm, the width of the line is 0.7 mm. Putting connecting line. So that the seams turned out to be neat and unprecedented, the line should be laid at some distance from the edge of the cuts.
And therefore, assuming that the seams on the product that is seduced from the knitwear will be carried out in a similar way, during the cutting of parts should take care of the allowances on the seams of 0.5. 1.0 cm wide (based on the properties of the material).
Fortunately for those who are not yet good overlock, most knitted materials do not appear and do not twist. Therefore, their sections can be: 1) Leave and so, without processing.
If the sections are twisted: 1) they can be fixed by paving the seam to allow one more such line, up to 6 mm from the edge.
Sections can be connected to a special lightning-shaped elastic seam.
How to sew knitwear on a household sewing machine
The lines laid in a knitwear rifles when stretching? Stitches look unevenly, and layers of material “go by waves” or shifted relative to each other after stitching on the household sewing machine? We understand why this happens, and tell you what to do to avoid the appearance of these problems.
Knitwear. Material that has high elasticity. To work with it, use a dispenser machine and overlock, which can perform single-end or multi-infinct chain seams formed due to the weave of the thread loopers. Such seam is relatively easily blossoming when cutting, but can stretch, and then return to its original position.
The household sewing machine is capable of making only shuttle stitches, which are formed by interlacing two threads: the upper needle and lower shuttle. Such seams are almost not blown, but they are tensile. Therefore, to sew a knitwear with a conventional straight line designed to beolate inelastic tissues, incorrect. For these purposes, special “knitted” seams should be used, which can withstand lightweight:
Quite durable, elastic seam, which is in most household machines with a needle opening width of 5. 7 mm. To the zigzag connecting line looked neat, the length and width of the seam on the knitwear should be reduced to 1.5. 2 mm.
In comparison with the classic zigzag, this option is more durable and elastic, since the formation of the seam requires more needle punctures. As a rule, intermittent zigzag is used to heat high tensile knitting: microfibers, bifxes, as well as for sewing gum to linen and swimsuits. The length and width of the intermittent zigzag should be configured on the sample to achieve the right balance between the appearance of the seam and its functionality.
Perfect option for laying finishing and fixing seams. From the outside, it looks like two parallel straight lines, and from the wrong one. as a zigzag, which gives the seam necessary (but less than that of a full zigzag) elasticity, and fastens the stitches among themselves.
For sewing knitwear, you should choose only those double needles that have appropriate labeling and are suitable for working with elastic tissues. The standard zigzag width in most cars is 5 mm, therefore, you can use double needles with a width of 2.5 to 4 mm.
Contour knitted (elastic) stitch
Externally looks like a straight line, the stitches of which are located with a little, barely noticeable bevel. Such seam works well when the vertical lines are heated. When crossing horizontal sections, the material may be deformed. To minimize additional stretching, you need to allow the machine to promote the web itself, controlling only the direction of movement, but not the rate of driving.
In most overlocks and displeasant machines, there is a function of the differential feed of the fabric, due to which the material can slightly stretch or shrink depending on the tasks. She simplifies the process of promoting knitwear under his paw and reduces the risk of landing on the stacked layers relative to each other.
In domestic sewing machines for feeding the fabric, a gear rail is responsible, which promotes the fabric towards the needle. When the two or more layers of the material are heated, the lower moves faster than the upper, as a result of which a small, but tangible landing occurs on the knitwear, the needle passes the stitches and tear the thread.
Solving this problem. the use of special paws. They do not just slide along the top layer of the material, and push it synchronously with a toothed rail. There are different options that are suitable for most modern sewing machines. The best is the top conveyor, the use of which makes the supply of tissue uniform and allows you to cross knitted materials in a straight line without a pretty mark. An alternative to such a device is a walking foot equipped with a silicone overlay that reduces the risk of stitches and simplifies the material promotion process.
For sewing knitwear, only special needles with a rounded edge are suitable, which does not break through the fiber material, and spreads them to the sides, while maintaining the integrity of the canvas.
We will analyze the classification of such needles on the example of the products of the German company Schmetz:
Jersey. needles for 100% cotton or low-power material with minor (up to 10%) M polyester;
Stretch. to work with a hollow smoothing, kashkorsk, riban, a footer, which is more than 10% polyester and / or elastane fibers are present;
Super Stretch. for well-stretched cauldron with lots of elastane (biflex, linen grid).
Stretch Twin Needle. Double Needles for Working with Elastic Surveillance, Cashkore, Riban, Futher.
Buying needles, pay attention not only to the alphabetic label, but also on the numerical notation specified on the package. Options with number 90 are suitable for sewing a dense knitwear or footter with a wrap, 80. for a three-touch loop, dilates and dense bifxes. 75. for sulfur stroit, microfiber, mesh, knitted guipure and other thin tissues.
Before proceeding with sewing, you should check the quality of the machine line on the sample: adjust the suitable tension of the needle and shuttle threads, weaken the pressure of the presser foot, adjust the sewing speed (it should be slow, and pressing the pedal. smooth).
Do not use thick, loose cotton threads or threads intended for decorative trim. The best choice in the case of knitwear is a thin high-quality synthetics that will not deform the fibers of the material.
Before heating the knitwear on the car you need to pre-leisure sections or to rock them with pins across the future seam to avoid displacement of the layers of the fabric. Neglect this rule can only if you have a special foot. the top conveyor.
How to sew knitwear
Before proceeding with sewing and cut, you need to make sure that you are accurately confident in the tensile ratio of the web. The reliability of your stitch depends on this parameter in the elastic fabric.
A little about elasticity
If you have learned information about the crop from a particular source, then we can usually find the extensibility coefficient for which the scheme is designed. Following the data obtained, select the item in the store with designated criteria.
But not always such information are available. Or in the instructions can be a space, or the canvas bought for a long time and the density is fixed forgotten.
Will have to do without. Calculate the density is actually easy. It is enough to choose an arbitrary part of the fabric, the main thing is that it is not the edge, indenting at least 8 centimeters. Choose a segment of 10 centimeters, and after stretching it to the maximum length. Measure the resulting number.
- 15 and more cm is highly elastic fabric. Its coefficient is the largest. 50%;
- less than 15, but not more than 12 is the average, 30%;
- 12 cm and less. low parameter, according to the standard only 12%.
How to choose treads for knitwear
When sewing an important role has the correct selection of threads. Too thick can ruin fabric at the point of puncture, and thin quickly break. It is also important to use threads corresponding to the needle number, otherwise there may be a passage of stitches or get a wavy line. In the marking of threads should be the letters of LL or HL. For the ordinary machine, such combinations are recommended:
To understand how to sew knitwear on the most ordinary sewing machine, it is important to deal with needles. They must match the thickness and type of fabric. The needle should be rounded, so that the filaments of the material are moved away, and not pierced. The packaging should be marked:
If the needle is chosen correctly, it does not tear fabric, does not form the tighters. After flashing the product, you will not notice the arrows with navalized loops. If you are going to sew on a conventional sewing machine, choose threads for knitwear depending on its thickness:
Needles and threads
One of the main components of success is the right choice of knitwear needles. There are two types of needles that sew different types of knitwear.
- Needles “Jersey” are suitable for working with voluminous knitting knitting knitting.
- “Stretch” needles are designed for thin elastic fabric: the edge of such a needle has a rounded shape and does not tear the fiber knitwear. Choose high-quality threads with a smooth surface, polyester or nylon. Be sure to try different options for needles and threads on trimming fabric to pick up the optimal needle size, stitch length and T. D.
Is it possible to sew knitwear on a conventional sewing machine
Tricat. Strauter fabric from which convenient and practical things are created.
Due to the fact that the material is easily stretched, it is capable of saving not every machine.
Therefore, for creating products, a special sewing knitted device is used or the so-called seam, which makes a flat seam, as well as Overlock or Covers.
Knitwear can also be sewed on a common typewriter, but problems arise due to the fact that the material can be:
- Pull and stronger stretch when stitching.
- Slippery and smooth, so the details are unevenly stepping.
- Too thin, so the paw does not presser him.
- Overly viscous and thin, and during a seam when jumping needles climb together with a needle.
If such problems occur, you can take the following:
- If the material is too stretched with sewing, it is necessary to close the seam location, wait until this place will dry up, and strain.
- When the fabric is smooth and slides, it is recommended to put paper under it. The conveyor will move the sheet of paper forward, and with it and matter.
- If the parts are unevenly stated due to slippery material, they first shut manually, and then the line is done on the typewriter.
- When the paw does not press the fabric due to the fact that it is too thin, the foot must be adjusted or put under the knitwear paper in several layers.
- If the matter is too viscous, a thin strip is cut out of the paper and superimposed on the fabric to the fabric where it is planned to make a line.
Important! When sewing a large number of knitted things, it is recommended to purchase special equipment, since the seams made on a conventional machine will not look as high quality and gently like those that are made on overlock or knitwear.
How to choose needles for tailoring knitwear on the household car
Knitted needles, as well as ordinary, differ in thickness, they need to be selected according to material density. Have a minimum of two types in reserves: a fond and thorough. Before taking the product details, be sure to make a trial line on a piece and adjust the thread tension.
The needles for knitwear are suitable for the futur and similar elastic materials.