How to connect engine cooling fan directly video review

All the main power circuits and modifications of the connection of the cooling fan (VA) of the fluid in VAZ cars of various models are given. What is the essence of work in? An electric motor with a impeller on the shaft is installed inside a rectangular metal frame, with which it is attached to the back of the radiator. When the voltage is supplied (12 V), he begins to work on the drive contacts, rotating the blades and creating a directed air stream, which, in fact, cools antifreeze or antifreeze.

If the cooling fan does not work, do not rush to contact the car service. You can establish the cause of the malfunction and independently. over, for this it is not at all necessary to have special skills. just study the reference material from 2SHemi.ru and follow the instructions for checking it/replacement.

Fan connection 2108, 2109, 21099

Until 1998, cars with an old mounting unit of fuses 17.3722 (finger fuses) relay 113 was included in the fan circuit.3747. After 1998, such a relay is missing.

Also, until 1998, the TM-108 inclusion sensor was used (the location temperature of its contacts is 99 ± 3ºС, the opening of 94 ± 3ºС), after 1998 TM-108-10 with similar temperature ranges or its analogues of different manufacturers. The TM-108 sensor only works paired with a relay, reinforced under a large TK TM-108-10 can work both with a relay and without it.

The circuit of the engine cooling fan on the VAZ 2109 with the mounting block 17.3722

K9. a fan electric motor. A. to the conclusion of the “30” generator

The circuit of the engine cooling fan on the VAZ 2109 with the mounting unit 2114-3722010-60

Until 1998, cars with an old mounting unit of fuses 17.3722 (finger fuses) relay 113 was included in the fan circuit.3747. After 1998, such a relay is missing.

Also, until 1998, the TM-108 inclusion sensor was used (the location temperature of its contacts is 99 ± 3ºС, the opening of 94 ± 3ºС), after 1998 TM-108-10 with similar temperature ranges or its analogues of different manufacturers. The TM-108 sensor only works paired with a relay, reinforced under a large TK TM-108-10 can work both with a relay and without it.

The circuit of the engine cooling fan on the VAZ 2109 with the mounting block 17.3722

K9. a fan electric motor. A. to the conclusion of the “30” generator

The circuit of the engine cooling fan on the VAZ 2109 with the mounting unit 2114-3722010-60

Inclusion scheme in VAZ 2110

The circuit for turning on the cooling fan of the VAZ 2110 on carburetor and injector vehicles is different. On cars with a carburetor engine, the TM-108 heat metallic sensor is used for this, and the controller is controlled on cars with an injector engine.

Turn on the radiator fan (Carlson) from the button.

After this refinement, a button appears in your salon (you can draw a carbon on it). In summer, in traffic jams you press the button and you have a smoothly turn on the Carlson, which works while the button is pressed at low speeds (this speed is enough so that the coolant temperature does not rise above 90-95 degrees). But if it suddenly rises above, then the standard 2nd maximum speed is turned on.

An additional relay was put to turn on the Carlson at low speeds. Since the heater and fan of the heater consume almost the same current. 15.2a /14a, then as a current limiter used the heater resistor. Current protection is also provided by the standard fuse F7.

  • Relay 4 contact
  • The resistance of the heater VAZ 2110
  • Wires
  • Button (set with a snowflake)
  • Terminals mom dad (many pieces)

The scheme is simple: parallel to the standard RV fan relay, an additional RV2 relay is connected, manually controlled by the SV2 button. When the relay is turned on the RV2, the fan is closed to the mass through the resistance RV2, which ensures slow rotation. The standard scheme works in the same mode, at the signal of the controller, the fan turns on at full speed.

We remove the terminal from the battery. We climb under the torpedo from the passenger side at the legs unscrew the lid and see 3 relay. We need a fan relay.

We are looking for a thin pink-black wire coming from the main relay (contact 85) and a thick force-black wire (contact 87) and wean our relay to them. By a book on different models of the VAZ 10th family, the pink-black wire of the main relay can come to contact 86 and 85. Focus on the color of the wires. Black-Purple (black-red) thin wire coming from the controller, we do not touch.

Next, set the heater resistance. Different resistances are sold in stores, preferably in isolation. (for example, for VAZ 2121 or dozens), which, apparently, can be placed without any consequences right there. in the salon under a torpedo, next to the relay. This is what I advise you to purchase if you do not want to experience additional difficulties in installing.

I advise you to take the resistance of the heater 2110

We return to the relay unit: contact 1 resistance. to contact 30 contact 3. on the mass of the car button. to contact 86 of our relay. The second contact of the button is for “mass”. Install full.time relay to the place. Our additional relay is screwed by the ear to the controller bracket.

Resistance can be fixed in the same place next to the reels, it is not heated much, but so that the resistance does not come into contact with the wiring must be placed in the metal case.

We put on the battery terminal and turn on the ignition. We check the performance of the circuit.

Why is a quenching resistor warming up ?Because quite a lot of power stands out on it. In absolute numbers, this looks something like this: Max current that consumes the fan. 15.3A (source); Suppose it is a start.up current, and a worker for example 10a. By turning it on the VAZ 2110 heater resistor with a resistance of 0.23 Ohms (source), we limit the current and, accordingly, the turnover. But at the same time, the current will flow through the resistor

8.57A, t.e. The resistor will fall 1.97 in. Respectively, 8.57A is multiplied by 1.97V. we get 16.88 watts, which is a lot. And if the current consumed by the fan in the established mode is more than ten amperes, then the power released on the additional resistor, respectively, will be greater.

Say that I am satisfied with the first result. to say nothing. I’m just going quietly. The fan at low speed works almost silently, its sound is compared with the sound of a gasoline pump. At full speed, it now either does not turn on at all, or it is very rarely turned on occurs smoothly, without shock load on the generator and voltage subsidence. At 30, the coolant temperature swam in the range 93-95 and did not rise above 96.

If the temperature regime of the engine goes beyond normal indicators, then the engine cooling system should be diagnosed.

Problems with blades

Since plastic is used in the manufacture of blades, this part of the fan is very susceptible to external mechanical influences. As a result, the blades are often deformed and broken if any extraneous items fall behind the grid. In this case, to fix the fan, the owner needs to dismantle the protective net. The back cover can stay in its place. There is no need to shoot it. The protective grid is held by a special clamp in the form of a plastic cap. It is easy to turn it with your hands. After the clamp is twisted and the protective grid is removed, a special lining is disconnected that fixes the blades. This stage of work can be performed without the use of tools. Blades are subject to replacement if they are very deformed. If during the operation of the fan there is a slight friction about the protective grill, then they are easily aligned with their hands. According to fan owners, plastic blades bend very easily.

Inside the fan there is an asynchronous engine with the regulation of the speed of rotation of the shaft by switching windings. The capacitor is attached to the gearbox. The radio element is not a starting. We believe that it is not for nothing that four in two rows are attached, shifted relative to each other to the eighth of the turnover. Field rotation uses a voltage phase and a shift of 90 degrees. The moment is useless, one winding of the asynchronous engine of the floor fan will burn, you will have to change the motor. It is not possible to wound a complex product on your own.

The speed control is performed by switching voltage to the corresponding wires by switching buttons on the rack. One core goes from the cord from the outlet to the engine, and the second position is selected by the operator. Only one of the speeds are pressed simultaneously, which is provided by mechanical methods for blocking parallel inclusion. Conducted by Krasnodar products by the presence of backlight: the upper button provides the burning of the diode. Will avoid a collision in the dark with a floor fan. Indirectly testifies: the manufacturer is in the know about the instability of the product.

The engine is compiled by an isolated silumin-drum rotor, the coil wiring was covered. The structure remains unknown for obvious reasons, the question is deprived. We believe that the probability of failure of the rotor is relatively small, the anchor receives the nutrition of the stator. The structure is usually represented by a squirrel cell. A set of longitudinal conductors located in a circle united by two rings from the ends. From both ends, there is a impeller blowing the coils of the stator on the rotor. Will allow an asynchronous engine to work more intensively. The Krasnodar floor fan has plastic impeller.

In case of ambiguities, call the wiring from the button (without disassembling the fan), exploring the hidden malfunction. The resistance of the working winding is not zero, too high. The cliff is not difficult to guess. The starting winding calls from the condenser contacts. The direction of rotation is determined by the mutual position of the launch and main windings, therefore, having mixed up in places, get the wrong result.

Of course, when at least one winding fails, the engine will not work. One phase is not enough to accelerate the rotor. Make up, following the clockwise, the blades (pulling your hand) to understand the presence of a characteristic malfunction. The floor fan will work. one winding burned. It is incorrect to talk about starting, working coils, copper skeins are identical. The capacitor engine.

The principle of operation of the extinguishing capacitor to connect the fan from a computer to 220 volts

Before we calculate a specific example, let’s say a few words, say how the extinguishing capacitor works in an alternating current circuit. In fact, in this case, the capacitor works as he is supposed. At the first half.wave, it charges, passing the current and voltage. Then, after charging, he simply “closes”. Although the half.wave has not yet been completed. In this case, the power restriction takes place for subsequent radio elements. Further, with the reverse half.wave, everything is in the same order, but the direction of current and voltage through the capacitor occurs in the opposite direction. As a result, this is how the voltage and current restriction occurs. The capacitor simply closes at a certain moment, that’s all. In fact, its closure will depend on the resistance of the consumer, on the capacitance of the capacitor, on the frequency of alternating current. We will not delve into the wilds, but immediately give the final formula. There she is.

proportionality coefficient, I. the current load, UV. network voltage (220 volts, although it may be less if you use a reducing transformer), U.wiring. load voltage (lamp) voltage (lamp). Now when we understand what and where, let’s try to make out the case for a specific example

Community make a blog itself bringing a household fan to mind for an inexpensive.

With the onset of summer, I thought about buying a fan. There was no great need for it, because in severe heat I usually “cut off” the air conditioner, but on a little stuffy days or, rather, the periods of these days, it is quite acceptable to use a banal air. Having estimated what I specifically need it, and, having selyed the market, I found several models that meet my requirements. Since I have no space in the room for installing the flooring, so the fan should have been desktop and always with remote control, because laziness! The price tag of those that I found overcame the threshold of two thousand. Not great money, but for the fan I counted a little much! over, I did not intend to use it often. Therefore, I decided to wait a bit when the toad is distracted and would not interfere with me to spend money. As it is not rare, everything decided. I walked along Lerua, saw a stand with fans and suddenly bought the cheapest. I could not resist

The fan is the most common. Two speeds, the possibility of turning when working. But without a remote control! This, of course, is a disaster, but it is not difficult to solve it. To begin with, he opened the case to get acquainted with the Men and understand the general plan of upcoming works.

There was a huge number! This is amazing! I immediately climbed to visit our Chinese friends for the necessary details. Rather in one. Here:

This is a 220 block of four relay with the possibility of remote switching. The switch is a remote control operating at 433MHz. This remote control is not included in the kit, so the block cost me some kind of penny.He arrived surprisingly quickly, there was also no hint of the heat in St. Petersburg! Mounted it in 10 minutes, neatly and leisurely. Bite off the wires from the buttons and hung them on two relay. And the block itself glued to bilateral tape.

There are really a lot of places inside, the block sat perfectly! And nowhere did it interfere!

After assembly in the reverse order, you could start lying on the bed and enjoy the controlled coolness.For some short time it happened. There was only one minus of all this. This fan blows very strongly and buzzes, even at the smallest speed! It started to annoy me quickly. I had to do something about it. Well, the Chinese helped me again.

The thing is called Dimmer. They can also be controlled by a 220-volt light bulb and not a very powerful engine, such as in a fan.Although there was enough free space in the case, it was convenient to arrange a dimmer, without its improvement, it was impossible. Therefore, I remove an unnecessary bracket and take out a potentiometer on the wires.

Connecting the cooler to the adapter 12 volts. He will not burn?

Guys, a question from the series It is better to get a bastard.

I plan to cut the cooler (fan, old from the case) not from the computer power supply, but directly from the network. I found an old adapter from a long.lost router at 12V0.5A. The cooler works from voltage just 12 volts, but it is written on it. 0.18a.

1) since I do not really understand electricity, a logical question arises. Does resistors are needed in the circuit to reduce current strength, since it is 2.5 times more than the adapter gives out. Or the current strength simply will not be used.

2) Is it possible to connect the second cooler to the circuit. And what is the connection diagram of the wires in this situation?

3) and a passing question. If we cut directly, if you need another element in the chain to protect this structure.

He will not burn out, the adapter does not give out any current, it is the consumer current (power) for which it is designed (the cross section of the transformer windings, etc.P.), you can second in parallel, no element is needed.

And if 4 to 0.15 I will connect, it comes out 0.6A. What will happen in this case. I ask just to understand the theory.

Haibullah Musaev: 0.6 more than 0.5 A, therefore, the power supply will work “at the limit”, the power supply may theoretically burn out.

Rou1997: why exactly the power supply should burn. Here, again, according to the theory of misunderstandings. As far as I remember, if the block was, for example, 9 volts or even 5, then the cooler would simply spin more slowly or could not have started at all. It is with a lack of stress. And with a lack of current strength, it turns out what other laws work.

ROU1997: And is it possible to connect a speed switch to it. By what principle this is possible to implement. Lower the voltage or use the fourth wire (if any).

KHAIBULLA MUSAEV: Current (power) in the mains in the mains is more than enough, but when the current is too large, the power supply will not withstand, even a simple wire has a cross section designed for a certain current strength, for example, if you connect a whole entrance 5- by a cable from a table lamp 5- floors, the cable will turn into an incandescent spiral, and if you connect an electric train, then immediately to a fuse.

From the Комментарии и мнения владельцев it is clear that you do not understand the practical meaning of the terms “tension” and “current”. In this case, comparison with the flow of water helps to understand. Voltage. This is an analogue of pressure, or the difference in levels above, the dam. And the current. an analogue of water consumption (not in vain in tune with the word “stream”). If the tap is closed (the switch is turned off, the circuit is open), then whatever voltage/pressure, (by) the current will not be. Now with your example. There is an adapter 12 V, 0.5 A. Turn it on. The output is 12 volts, and no current, although it says 0.5 A. The path for stream has not yet been created. We connect the cooler. I went the current that the cooler requested, t.e. 0.18 A, and no more (the flow flows in size of the hole that was opened to it). The remaining 0.32 amperes have not yet been in demand. We connect another same cooler. current increased to 0.36 A (two streams of 0.18). Since the adapter can provide 0.5, everything is fine. But if we connect another same cooler, the total current will increase to 0.54 and, which is more permissible for the adapter. it will be overloaded, it is required of it that. If a stream is overflowing through the dam more than can come along the river, then since the water has gone, the upper level above the dam will decrease. Similarly, when overloading along the current, the output voltage of the adapter will decrease and will already be less than 12 volts. If the protection against overload in the adapter diagram is not provided, it will simply overheat and may burn out. If the protection is provided, then during overload it will work, the adapter will turn off, the output current will disappear.

If there is no built.in protection against overload, then usually consistently includes such an element as a fuse fuse. Burning himself, he protects the rest of the scheme from damage, much more expensive. In your case, it is useful to turn on the fuse to 0.5 a to the adapter’s output chain. But the real combustion current of cheap fuse fuses is not accurate and may be within.thirty%. 80%. So do not be surprised if you see that such a fuse burns when connecting only two coolers or does not burn at all when the whole adapter is already in smoke.

Radiator fan connection diagram

The engine on the engine is placed on the radiator, which has a small plate below. From temperature, it begins to heat up, moving the red rod connecting the contacts together. One of the contacts always connects to the body, already fastened through it with a minus terminal of the battery. Minus is supplied to the electromagnet relay.

For another contact, plus when the ignition is turned on. The electromagnet attracts the iron that connects the contacts together (30, 87) and a plus goes to the electric fan through the fuse from the generator, which makes the entire design work.

The cooling fan electric circuit occurs according to the following description:

  • The voltage is supplied to the electric engine of the cooling fan.
  • Next, this engine is connected to the power sensor of this device and switches to the mass.
  • When the response temperature reaches, the sensor closes. the current flows through the circuit.
  • The fan begins to work!

Why You Should NEVER EVER INSTALL ELECTRIC FANS!!

Когда температура снижается у двигателя — датчик, соответственно, размыкается, ток прекращает течь, электровентилятор останавливается: происходит отключение системы.

Please note that the cooling fan connection circuit through the relay is different in that the entire charge goes to the mass. When it is closed, the current flows through the primary winding, contacts 87, 30 are closed. I begins to flow in the electric motor circuit. When the temperature decreases, the reverse process occurs.

The primary winding is connected to the plus 12 V to the ignition coil. The wire reaches for 86 relay output. From 85 it stretches to the fan sensor. From the inclusion sensor, the wire falls on the mass. It turns out at least wires, and the relay is in the immediate vicinity of the inclusion sensor.

Schemes options

The circuit for turning the cooling fan using the relay depends only on the correct connection of the plus with the minus, respectively, the wires!

How the relay works

The electric fan over time begins to consume a large amount of electricity, unlike the new. Starting currents can simply ruin the temperature switch.

The main task of the relay is to switch highly current circuits using a low current control signal.

A typical relay is a reel on the core, which is an electromagnet and a group of contacts, closing or opening together. The reel is triggered at very low current values ​​of several milliamps. Valid contacts allow large currents to go through themselves.

The relay is indicated on the diagram by the letter K with a numerical index, showing its serial number and with the help of 2 blocks: the first is an electromagnet, the second is a group of contacts.

It is characterized by the following parameters: voltage, the current at which the relay is triggered, as well as U, the current of the switches: what value I can pass through his contacts. It is impossible to exceed U. the voltage of contacts may occur, their subsequent sticking to each other.

Engine cooling fan connection

We all know that during the operation of almost any mechanism a certain amount of heat is released. In domestic conditions, most often such a phenomenon can be observed during the operation of the computer, and if it is not cooled in any way, then the internal boards together with the contacts will simply be fused. To prevent this from happening, the design of the computer provides for the presence of a special fan designed to cool heated parts. In the automotive world, its engine is the main source of heat of the vehicle, so the need for its cooling arose almost simultaneously with the creation of the specified power unit.

Initially, the process of evolution of the cooler systems of the machine went in two ways, which is why two types of cooling systems are installed on the manufactured vehicles: air and liquid (hybrid). Since there is air in both systems designed to scatter the heat allotted from the engine, then one common element is used in their design. the fan. This device provides constant and uniform heat removal into the atmosphere, thereby cooling the internal elements of the automotive engine structure.

The device and purpose of the engine cooling fan

As we have already said, a working engine is a powerful heat emitter, and in order to avoid overheating of the unit itself, this heat should definitely be removed. The solution of this problem is assigned to various cooling systems.

Так, например, в жидкостной системе охлаждения мотора, в качестве главного рабочего элемента используется вода или антифриз. Циркуляция жидкости проходит в блоке цилиндров и в головке блоков, где она забирает тепло от двигателя, нагревая тем самым себя. Естественно, для успешного выполнения своих обязанностей, охлаждающей жидкости необходимо отдать полученное тепло, чтобы вновь выполнить ту же функцию. Здесь в игру вступает радиатор.

Расположение радиатора системы охлаждения автомобильного мотора позволяет ему при движении машины «ловить» потоки набегающего воздуха, что существенно ускоряет отдачу тепла, а значит, и жидкость быстрее охлаждается. Однако автомобиль не может все время находиться в движении, поэтому в пробках или при длительных стоянках, когда транспортное средство не двигается, но его двигатель продолжает работать, тепло от радиатора отводится намного хуже, что нередко вызывает перегрев мотора со всеми вытекающими последствиями. Такой результат можно получить и вследствии движения транспортного средства на малых скоростях, особенно в жаркий летний день.

Вентилятор, расположенный перед радиатором, предотвращает подобные ситуации и обеспечивает двигателю нужное охлаждение. Он включается при длительном простое автомобиля с работающим двигателем, когда в охладительной системе температура становится критической. Вентилятор разгоняет тепло, пропуская необходимый поток воздуха через радиатор, благодаря чему тепло отводится в атмосферу.

Несмотря на всю важность такого устройства, оно обладает достаточно простой конструкцией и обычно состоит из трех основных элементов: крыльчатки (как правило, имеет четыре лопасти, но их может быть и больше), кожуха и привода вентилятора.

Привод вентилятора, который как раз и обеспечивает его вращение, может быть трех видов (на одной машине, конечно, устанавливается только один из них): механический, гидромеханический или электрический.

Наиболее простым вариантом является механический привод вентилятора, в котором вращение передается от коленвала посредством ременной передачи. Но в данном случае вентилятор вращается всегда, когда работает мотор, что в отдельных ситуациях (например, при запуске холодного двигателя) вызывает крайне негативные последствия. Поэтому на выпускаемых сегодня автомобилях такой способ охлаждения уже не применяется.

Более совершенным считается гидромеханический привод, который использует для работы гидравлическую или вязкостную муфту. В гидравлическом варианте этого элемента крутящий момент передается или отключается от коленвала за счет изменения количества смазочной жидкости. В вязкостной муфте с этой целью применяется силиконовая жидкость, а ее вязкость зависит от температурных показателей, изменение которых дает команду включить или отключить привод вентилятора. На сегодняшний день оба вида не нашли массового распространения, из-за чего встретить их можно нечасто.

possible, connect, cooling, directly

Самым совершенным, и в то же время, сравнительно несложным видом привода вентилятора является электропривод, который приводит вентилятор в движение с помощью простого электрического двигателя, подключенного к бортсети автомобиля. Благодаря электромеханической (используется на старых моделях машин) и электронной (применяется на новых) системе управления, вентилятор, оборудованный электроприводом, способен включаться и выключаться при изменении температурных показателей охлаждающей жидкости. Также он может вращаться с разными скоростями при разных рабочих режимах силового агрегата автомобиля.

В наше время вентиляторы, оборудованные электрическим типом привода, получили наиболее широкое применение, и вряд ли такое положение вещей изменится в ближайшем будущем.

Установка и подключение вентилятора

Учитывая, что автомобили оборудуются вентиляторами в штатном режиме, повторная установка может понадобиться только в ходе проведения ремонтных работ, то есть после замены сломанных частей старой детали или же при монтаже нового устройства. Кроме того, некоторые автолюбители устанавливают дополнительный вентилятор, который, по их мнению, сможет помочь более качественно решить проблему охлаждения двигателя.

Доработка пуска и работы вентилятора радиатора ВАЗ 2110

Так как Вентилятор Системы Охлаждения Двигателя (ВСОД) на ВАЗ 2110 имеет только одну скорость работы, то многим не нравится скачкообразное поведение стрелки ОЖ на приборной панели. Да и резкое включение вентилятора радиатора хочется как то сгладить Решение вопроса есть и даже не одно !

possible, connect, cooling, directly

Минусы стандартной системы охлаждения:

  • Наличие эффекта «термокачки» (температура в жаркий период времени постоянно колеблется от точки включения вентилятора радиатора (карлсона) до точки его выключения).
  • Ударные электрические (токовые) нагрузки на бортовую сеть.

Рассмотрим момент работы вентилятора радиатора более детально:

Плавный пуск вентилятора охлаждающей жидкости. Фотоотчет.

Тепловой режим работы двигателя поддерживается термостатом и электровентилятором радиатора. Последний включается датчиком, ввернутым в левый бачок радиатора (на карбюраторном двигателе ВАЗ 2110) или через реле по сигналу ЭБУ (на инжекторных двигателях ВАЗ 2111.2112).

Normal Cooling Fan VS Turbo Cooling Fan Comparison Video, Air Speed, Power Testing Review

Если старый радиатор не подлежит больше ремонту и Вы его решили заменить, тогда хорошая возможность выбрать и купить новый. Например, радиатор Лузар приспособлен, как для инжекторных, так и для карбюраторных моторов (есть возможность установить датчик температуры охлаждающей жидкости (ДТОЖ) от карбюратора).

Если установить дополнительный датчик охлаждающей жидкости (ДТОЖ) в радиатор/патрубок, тогда получится так: При достижении температуры охлаждающей жидкости до уровня датчика, вентилятор включается в пол силы. А если температура будет расти и поднимется до уровня срабатывания по ЭБУ, то он начнет работать в полную силу.

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Двухрежимный вентилятор имеет ряд преимуществ:

  • Более «мягкий» температурный режим двигателя без сильных колебаний температуры;
  • Снижение нагрузки на систему стартовыми токами электродвигателя путем уменьшения их количества и величины;
  • Снижение шума.

Схема и фото установленного устройства:

Альтернативные схемы подключения, но смысл один и тот же:

Включение вентилятора радиатора (карлсона) от кнопки.

После данной доработки у вас в салоне появляется кнопка (можете на ней нарисовать карслона ). Летом в пробках Вы нажимаете кнопку и у Вас плавно включается карлсон, который работает пока нажата кнопка на малых оборотах (этой скорости достаточно, что бы температура ОЖ не поднималась выше 90-95 градусов). Но если вдруг она поднимется выше, то включается штатная 2ая максимальная скорость.

Для включения карлсона на пониженных оборотах было поставлено дополнительное реле. Поскольку ВСОД и вентилятор отопителя потребляют почти одинаковый ток — 15.2А /14А, то в качестве ограничителя тока использовал резистор отопителя. Защиту по току так же обеспечивает штатный предохранитель F7.

  • Реле 4-х контактное
  • Сопротивление отопителя ВАЗ 2110
  • Провода
  • Кнопка (поставил со снежинкой)
  • Клеммы мама папа (много штук)

Схема простая: параллельно штатному реле вентилятора Рв подключено дополнительное реле Рв2, управляемое вручную кнопкой Sв2. При включении реле Рв2 вентилятор замыкается на массу через сопротивление Rв2, что обеспечивает медленное вращение. Штатная схема работает в прежнем режиме, по сигналу контроллера вентилятор включается на полной скорости.

Снимаем клемму с АКБ. Залезаем под торпеду с пассажирской стороны в ногах откручиваем крышку и видим 3 реле. Нам нужно реле вентилятора.

Ищем тонкий розово-черный провод, идущий от главного реле (контакт 85) и толстый силовой бело-черный провод (контакт 87) и подцепляем наше реле к ним. по книжке на разных моделях ВАЗ 10-го семейства розово-черный провод главного реле может приходить как на контакт 86, так и на 85. Ориентируемся по цвету проводов. Черно-пурпурный (черно-красный) тонкий провод, идущий от контроллера, мы не трогаем.

Далее устанавливаем сопротивление отопителя. В магазинах продаются разные сопротивления, желательно в изоляции. (например, для ВАЗ 2121 или десятки), которые, судя по всему, можно без всяких последствий размещать тут же – в салоне под торпедой, рядом с реле. Именно такие я и советую приобретать, если не хотите испытать дополнительные трудности при установке.

Советую взять сопротивление отопителя 2110