I remember for life, while the time when sewing machines and sewing accessories were first appeared in our city from the world famous German brand.
People came to this store, as in the museum. First, the price. It is 600 dollars for the sewing machine for the sewing machine quite a “edible” figure, and then, in the early 90s, 600 dollars for the overwhelming majority of the inhabitants of the country were, as many million.
And secondly, the appearance of these overseas miracles. things. I think many then, not only me, these sewing machines seemed to be a divine, technical perfection of unearthly beauty. Just think, the denim cloth is stringent in 8 layers, and the line looks perfect! And all other tools and sewing devices! Brilliant, beautiful, in unprecedented posts packages!
That’s the first time I learned that there are special needles for knitwear in this light, for skin and t.D. And even acquired (for what money was enough) a set of needles for knitted fabrics. By the way, these needles are still alive. How then showed life to sew knitwear, one special needle is not enough
Although since the invention in 1846, for many years has passed the first sewing machine, and the machine needle function still consists only in penetrating the fabric and spend the thread in the needle. But this feature is archived! In any sewing machine without a needle, nothing will be accomplished.
And without a properly selected needle it is impossible to perform a high quality work. To understand why it is so important to choose the right needle, and what it is, this right needle, you need, in the literal sense of the word, consider the sewing machine needle closer.
The structure of sewing machine needle for household sewing machine.
The needle for the household sewing machine is a straight cylindrical stem, pointed at one end.
First in the photo we see so to speak, the front side of the needle. It is this side that the needle is addressed to us when it is inserted into the sewing machine’s needle holder during her work. Second position. “Rear” needles, rear view. Third position. side view.
Figures are clearly visible on the colummer. They denote the size (diameter) needles (rod). The first digit is the size of the needle, expressed in millimeters. For example, 5 is the size of the needle, and, accordingly, the thickness (transverse diameter) of the rod, which is 0.75 mm. Needle number. 00, rod thickness. 1 mm. And T.D.
The second digit, through oblique line (slash), this is also the designation of the size (diameter) of the machine needle rod, only in inches. For example, 13, 16 and t.D. In inches size (diameter) is indicated for countries where such a unit is used in everyday life.
And, of course, the more the figure is indicated on the colummer, the thicker needle, more its size.
- 2. Lysk makes it easier to install the needle to the needle product, he is a needle holder.
- 3. rod (blade) on which there are two grooves,
- 4. one long front
- 5. the second short rear.
In a long groove constantly “lives” a thread, drowning in the needle (top thread), and her groove sends it and protects against friction.
Short groove helps the penetration of the thread into the material.
- 6. At the end of the groove. in front, there is an eye.
- 7. on top of a short groove, rear on the needle, is a notch. It is not just here, but for better capture of the lower thread, to create a loop from this thread, so that you can make a stitch.
- 8. rod (blade) needles ends with edges. Tips Designed for Piercing Fabrics.
Manufacturers of sewing machine needles produce needles with a round flask. Such needles are significantly less in demand than the previous ones, but they still exist.
High-quality machine needles are released in the appropriate packages. From different manufacturers packaging different, even very different. It is natural and clear.
But in all packages without exception, cells are provided for machine needles. Special grooves in order for the needle, the whole whole and the edge in particular was there in full preservation.
In specialized needles stores for household sewing machines are sold with different amounts of needles inside the package, for example: 2, 5 or 10. In the package there may be a needle of one species, and maybe “national team” needles. For example, 2 knitwear needles, 2 for textiles, 2 for skin. Or two needles of the 70th size, two 90th size, two 110th for some kind of type of fabric, for some one type of work and t.D.
On the packages, there are also information about the needle, which “live” inside.
130/705, 130, 705, 130h, 130n, 130r / 750. for flat flasks
This is the designation of a certain standard that all manufacturers adhere to. (This is that different needles from different manufacturers approached different sewing machines, also from different manufacturers).
The most famous manufacturers of machine needles. Australian company Hemline, Indian Altek Beissel, German Schmetz, Singer, Prym, PFFAF, Japanese Organ Needle, Russian company “Needle Arti” and DR.
(The same picture). The letter designation in the first row, for example: H is an accessory of needles in packaging to a particular view. Currently produced:
Marking (N. Universal Needle). Universal Needles;
Marking (N-M. MicroTex Needle). Needles for microtextile;
Marking (H-LL-LEATHER Needle). Leather needles.
Marking (H-S. Stretch Needle). Needles for sewing stretch tissues;
Notes in Loskutki
ELX705. Needle system, specially intended for plays and croquilok. They are a little longer than standard needles. There are usual and chrome. The latter are just denoted by the letters CF (Chrome Finish).
SCHMETZ ELX705 SUK CF. Needle for crochlocks with medium spherical edge (optimal choice for knitwear.)
Both types of these needles have a second groove, which is necessary to create a chain stitch. Chrome coating (CF) makes a needle more resistant to damage.
Only depending on the type of fabric or material with which you work, choose the needles with the corresponding labels.
In the name of the needle encrypted information about the assignment of the needle and its thickness. The needle with the title 130 / 705h-J (0) is a needle for household sewing machines, suitable for dense tissues, the diameter of the needle 0.9mm.
There are two needle identification systems, american (Singer System) and metric (European).
The needle number is always applied to the needle flask, it denotes the diameter of the needle in the hundredths of the millimeter. Step for such needles. 5 (for example, 80, 85, 90), there are sizes from 60 to 120. The higher the number, the thicker needle.
Step of the American system “1”, the rooms are from 8 to 21. Compliance with European labeling will be:
8/60. Very Light Fabric10 / 70. Light Fabrics12 / 80. Lightweight and Middle Tissues14 / 90. Medium Tissues16 / 100. Heavy Tissues18/110. Very Heavy Fabrics
Also need to remember the compliance of the combination of the needle. In threads, the situation is reverse, the higher the number the thinner thread from 18 to 250.
Decoding of alphabetic needle values.H Universal needles.H-J needles for dense tissues.H-M needles for thin dense tissues.H-S needles for elastic fabrics.H-e embroidery needles.H-Q needles for quilting.H-suk needles for thick knitwear.H-LR, H-LL Skin Needles.H-o needle with bladesh-zwi double needle-dri triple needle
H. Universal needles. The needle’s edge is slightly rounded, these needles are suitable for “non-capricious” fabrics, flax, hawk, cotton and others. Needle size from 60 to 110 rooms can be easily found on sale.
H-J. Needles for dense thick tissues of the type of jeans, tarpaulin, summer weave fabrics. Needle has acute sharpening.
H-M. These needles are very sharp and thin for point punctures of the fabric, designed for microfiber tissues and thin tissues of dense weave. Cloating fabrics with coated and without, silk, taffeta and other similar fabrics.
H-S. needles for elastic fabrics. On needle with such labeling there is a special edge that reduces the risk of stitches of stitches when stretching the seam and the rounded edge of the needle. Rounded edge spreads fabric fibers without disturbing their structure. It is used when sewing knitwear of medium density and knitted tissues from synthetic fibers.
H-E. Embroidery needle has a special recess, slightly rounded edge, greater strength of the needle metal and increased ear. Needles of this type are designed for decorative sling or embroidery with special embroidered threads. Needle size from 70 to 90 rooms.
H-EM. Embroidery Needles or Sewing Metallized Tops. Have a large polished UCHO and groove to prevent the bundle of metallized threads. Rooms 80 and 90. 80 Needle number for thin fabrics. Number 90 for more dense heavy tissues.
H-Q. needles for quilting have a special SCOS, reduced ear and rounded edge. When sewing such a needle on the fabric will not be markedly traces from punctures. The use of these needles in the decorative lines existing in your Brother car will minimize tracks from the needle proof.
H-SUK. Needles with rounded edges are designed for sewing thick knitwear, jersey and knitted products. The needle spreads the threads and loops of the fabric, without damaging it.
H-LR. needles designed to sew the skin, have a cutting edge. Such a needle cuts the skin at an angle of 45 degrees (more about these needles later) relative to the seam direction. The line made by such a needle will have a small slope.
H-O. needle with a blade, designed for decorative decorations of seams, performing measureeks with decorative lines. Needles of this type have a different width of the blades. Blades can be both on one side of the island and both. The use of these needles on the line, where the needle makes punctures several times in the same place, will strengthen the decorative effect.
H-ZWI. Double Needle combines two needles combined with one holder. Purpose of such a needle decorative finish and performance. Loading the nose of knitwear products (Zig zag will be formed on the involve side). Needles are only three sized (0.80.90) and three types (H, J, E). The distance between the needles is marked on the packaging in millimeters (1.6, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 4.0, 6.0). The higher the number, the wider distance between the needles. Needles 4.0 and 6.0 can only be applied on a straight line.
H-DRI. Triple needles are only two sizes (2.5, 3.0). Working with this type of needle is similar to the needle labeling H-ZWI. When working on Brother machines with such type needles, use lines designed to work with a double needle. If an incorrect selection of a stitching needle may break and damage the car or cause injury.
Topstitch. Special Needles for Decorative Lace. The needle has a big ear and a big groove to decorative thread (it is thicker than usual in order to be clearly visible on the fabric) easily passed through it. If you need to make a line with loose disintegrating threads, then this needle will be the best choice. Rooms from 80 to 100. For light, medium and heavy tissues.
Needle manufacturers improve their needles, increasingly in stores You can buy needles with marking in the form of a fabric type name for example 130 / 705h Jeans. Jeans Tissue Needle. This needle corresponds to the type H-J. A new generation of needles for household sewing machines with titanium coating for better sliding between fabric layers.
Manufacturer of overlocks Bernina recommends using JLX2 system needles especially to perform a flat seam (Cover Stitch), which can be performed on Bernette 009DCC overlock models, Bernina 1300DC and 2500DCET. The use of JLX2 system needles improves flat seam type and avoids stitches.
How to sew a hand needle?
Trinity. hand needle, fabric and threads, must approach each other (see. Tables in the article at the top).
It is advisable not to inject a thin thread in the “Gypsy” needle and on the contrary, you can not, but do not hesitate, thick thread in a tiny ear needle.
A very thick needle will definitely leave a trail on a thin tissue with a dense weave of the threads of the canvas. A very thick cloth with loose weaves of threads hard to sew a very small and thin needle. (Except the opposite actions are performed with some special, can be a decorative goal).
The length of the thread for manual sewing should be not very big. Not in vain in the people they say: “Long thread. lazy girl!”Because the desire to quickly make a job turns around that the long thread is constantly confused. Especially if this thread is folded in two layers. Optimal length 50. 60 cm.
It is approximately the same distance as the length of the left toward and painted hands. And when the thread is in need of a needle, it will still be shorter.
They say it is necessary to wipe the thread with a paraffin candle so that the thread is better slid and not twisted. To say frankly, I never did. But it seems to me that there is something. It will be necessary to try somehow.
How to choose the needles for manual sewing?
You can buy needles for manual sewing in specialized stores to sew, embroider and T.P.
Because the needles are very important and necessary thing in any farm, often such needles can be found in small stores selling all sorts of household.
Sell manual needles in special packaging, where every needle has its own cell. They sell them, as a rule, sets to at once (in one set) a person could buy several different (in size, by appointment) needles. And it seems to me that it is right and good for us consumers.
Needles for manual sewing should be high quality. And it means, they must be straight, the middle line for the trimmer. The ears must match the needle axis. Needles must be sharp, elastic, harmful.
The surface of the needle should be smooth, uniform in color, polished. On the surface of the needle should not be sowing, dents and traces of corrosion.
Although it is unlikely that the responsible manufacturer will “release into the world” low-quality needles. Rather, they may be such in the process of improper operation. Therefore, it is necessary to store needles carefully, carefully. Away from children and wet places.
Hand needles are produced without applying special labeling. Their name reflects their functions: universal sewing, embroidery, duct, for skin, for beads and t.D. Also, the needle size is applied on the package: from 1 to 15 or 13-26 (different system). Needle for sewing machine is marked with a special code that will help you find the needle even without packaging. This code consists of numbers and letters and is located on the flask. The numbers are the diameter (thickness) of the needle, measured in hundredths of a millimeter or in inches in. For example, the number 60 corresponds to the thickness of 0.6 mm. Sometimes the manufacturer indicates both sizes, then the values are written in the form of 80/12. Letters will tell you about what machines and with what materials this needle should work. The letter is hosted by a universal needle, the tip of her is a slightly rounded. Clarifications concerning the type of fabric are adding through a hyphen.
Recently there is a color designation needles: blue flasks have a jeans needle, raspberry on the needle microtex, yellow flasks in a knit needles.
Sewing machine needles
Universal. the name speaks by itself for itself, these needles are suitable for sewing most types of fabrics: blouse, costume, cloak, palp, bedding, interior fabrics and t. D. For the production of such fabrics, natural, artificial or mixed types of fibers, different weaving methods and their combination. The choice of a suitable needle is determined by the thickness and density of the tissue. For thin tissues, a needle from 60 to 75 rooms is suitable, the medium will die of needle from 75 to 90, and thick fabrics are better to sew needles from 90 to 110.
Needles for stretch and superstare.tractory needle is distinguished by rounded ending and when sewing, fibers of the fabric are moving away, and not pierced. To distinguish the needle for knitwear from the universal “on the eye” is quite difficult, if only at hand there is no microscope. To quickly determine the needle for knitwear, spend it with a sharp end on the nail, the rounded end of this needle will not leave the scratching track. When buying needles in the store, keep in mind what knitted fabric you will sew. You can most often find needles with marking: Jersey. the name of this type of needles prompts the type of fabric that they are stitched by them. These are knitted fabrics made of natural fibers with a small number of synthetic additives or completely without them. Stretch / SuperStretch If you have seen such marking on the needle box, then you know that these needles are sewn superelastic fabrics with a large or 100% artificial fibers. As an example, you can give such fabrics as “Kulirka”, “Riban”, “Oil”, “Biflex” and T. D.
Jeans Needles. Jeans. This type of needles has a longer edge compared to a universal needle and very sharp sharpening that allows you to punch dense denim. These needles can be applied for other materials, which uses a twist of the duck strands and bases. Jeans needles can also be used when sewing products made of thin skin, leatherette, vinyl, lacquer and other materials with special coatings and impregnations.
Skin needles are a special type of needle, characterized by a special sharpening, more often resembling blade or spear. Such a needle does not puncture the material, but cuts it precisely for this reason the line, made on the skin or the leatherette can not break off, the track from the proof needle does not remove. It should be noted that when sewing and embroidery with thin clothing skin, the use of special needles is not always justified and they can be easily replaced by universal or Jeance needles.
Sharp or needles for thin and silk fabrics. very sharp and elongated tip suitable for chiffon, silk, fabrics with microfiber and other density materials, as well as for hinge processing. You will have the needles of all sizes from 0 to 0.
Embroidery and titanium super strong needles. have a nickel-plated coating and a large ear, which allows smooth flip thread to slide at high speed without breaking. Cost to have 5, 0, 0.
For a metallized thread. remarkable in that it has a large nickel-plated ear ensuring the sliding at all speeds of the sewing machine and a large groove on the needle rod preventing stratification and thread breaking. Purchase 0 or more.
For quilting. they recently appeared on the Russian market, these needles have a strong bevel and a slightly rounded edge, allowing to pass through a multi-layer patchwork unit without damaging the structure of the upper, facial tissue. Used both for work in patchwork and for ordinary sewing mainly of thin, gentle tissues. You can find on sale needles of various thicknesses, from 75 to 90.
Double and triple- Using double or triple needles on the sewing machine is allowed only if this is provided for by the instructions for your sewing machine, the recommended lines and settings are also indicated in it.
Important! Before sewing with these needles, make sure that the needle is installed strictly in the center.
Double needles have a common flask on which two needles are fixed, the distance between which indicates the distance between future lines. When choosing a needle, consider the width of the hole for the needle in the sewing machine needle plate.
Dual needles in conjunction with a straight line, will put two parallel lines on the front side of the product, and the zig stitch will be on the wrong. Such a line is elastic and it is possible, for example, to strip the bottom of the product, make a double stop, and also replace the flat decaying seam. Dual needles will help to perform an attractive finish if you combine them with decorative lines and different threads. Before performing such a line, check if the needle enters the hole on the needle plate, manually tugging the flywheel.
The same recommendations apply to the triple needle, but this type of needle will allow you to lay three parallel or decorative lines at once, for one reception.
For stopping. The needle for performing a stop is used to perform high-quality syns, thick and decorative threads: reinforced, woolen or threads in two or more addition. Has an elongated ear and thin, sharply sharpened edge. Easily pierces several layers of material, preventing passage of stitches, which is especially important for a qualitatively crosslied product.
For Mezhiki. Needle with blades, used in combination with straight and special lines-measurements. When sewing such a needle fiber fabrics are moved to a large width than the hole in the tissue creates. The more often the needle gets into the same hole, the more it will be larger. Brightly pronounced openings from stitching, made by this needle are achieved on tissues with loose weaving structure (flax, cotton, batter and t. D.). Also, this needle can be used for embroidery on embroidery machines. The design of machine embroidery is created taking into account the features of the “winged needle”. Before performing the measurement or embroidery, the cloth is recommended to starch.
For manual embroidery
For manual embroidery, use short needles, up to 3 cm long. They have a rounded edge, which gently spreads the weaving of the fabric, and an elongated oho-shaped ear, in which it is convenient to insert threads Moulin in several layers. These needles also call tapestry and they are of size from 13 to 28. For embroidery satin or artistic stroke, longer and sharp needles should be taken. For embroidery, you can use a special two-sided needle.
She is longer than ordinary needles and has a hole for thread in the middle. A double-sided needle is invented to embroider with two hands without turning the needle that significantly saves time. Working with beads Take the thinnest needles with the same subtle ear. This needle will easily pass into the thin hole of the bead.
How to choose the needle for the sewing machine
When choosing a needle for sewing machines, you need to adhere to certain criteria. They are as follows:
- For each type of sewing machine, needle purchased. You still need to get acquainted with the instruction to the store, it has all the necessary information. Usually it is indicated number, marking.
- Type of fabric. IMPORTANT When sewing products are guided by the rules, take into account the purpose of each working tool in accordance with the characteristic of the material. He must fit in shape and thickness.
- Manufacturer. From the company will depend on how qualitatively the firmware will be, as well as how long will the needle. The best manufacturers are recognized Janome, Organ, Schmetz.
If you need to choose a needle yourself, then it is important to take all the indicated criteria. It is also necessary before buying to inspect the product on the absence of defects. Needle should not be a curve, the ear must be located correctly towards the groove. The tip must be well sharpened and not to be rusty.
Device type selection
When buying, it is recommended to take the following criteria as a guideline:
- Manufacturer. Here are just some firms that have become the best. GROZ-BECKERT, ORGAN, SCNMERTZ. If you give preference to famous firms. you can not worry about quality. The curvature of the instrument, the lack of external defects. the most important parameters that are checked before work.
- Fabric characteristics, whose application is planned. There are special tables containing information regarding the purpose of each type of tools. For different fabrics need their own forms, thickness.
- A variety of sewing machine. For example. industrial view. It is better to study the instructions produced to the device in advance. In this document, also give recommendations as to which one better to take a tool in one way or another. When replacing item it is especially important to observe, serious differences are noticeable in the flasks.
Sewing Machine Needle SizesWhat do they mean?!
How to choose the right needle for a home sewing machine?
Needles in domestic apparatus are supplied with flat flasks. Due to this, the correct installation of tools and other devices is simplified. Industrial needles do not use inside household appliances. If curvature is detected. you can try to align to correct the shortcomings. Pick up the tool correctly.
Important. If the quality of the manufacture of products is high. they will not be bought. Steel or nickel will simply break if attempts to correct the situation will be too intense. But this is an indication that the adaptation is high quality.
Task correctly selected needle. Spice fiber fabric. Due to this, high quality seam is achieved. If the type of needle does not match the selected material, the seam will be ugly, the fibers of the fabric will turn outward, and in the point of puncture the fabric will be pulled out. Therefore, the choice of the type of needle is, in fact, the most important condition for ensuring high quality line.
The use of the needle is denoted by letters in the name of the needle. For example, the needle with the title 130 / 705h-M is designed for thin dense tissues. Also, often the needles have a simplified designation: “Jeans”, “Super Stretch”, “MicroTex”, “Leather”, “Embroidery”, and t.D. Decoding letter designations are shown below.
H Universal needles. Have a slightly rounded edge and can be the most different size. On sale usually there are needles sizes from 60 to 110. Universal needles are designed to sewing simple, not “capricious” fabrics.
H-J needles for dense tissues. Such needles have sharp sharpening. Needles are used at sewing thick dense material. jeans, sarge, tarpaulin and t.P.
H-M Needles Microtex. Microtex needles are very sharp and thin. These needles are used to accurately piercing microfiber, thin and affective material, for example for silk, taffeta and t.P.
H-S needles for elastic fabrics. On such a needle there is a special edge that reduces the risk of passing stitches when tensile material and slightly rounded edge. The needle is used to sewing the knitwear of medium density and synthetic elastic tissues.
H-e embroidery needles. On embroidery needle, there is a special excavation and a slightly rounded edge, and the hole of the ear is somewhat larger, so as not to damage the material or thread. This type of iba is designed for decorative embroidery with special embroidered threads.
H-Q needles for quilting. On needle for quilting there is a special SCOS, a reduced ear and rounded point, so that the traces from punctures are not noticeable on the fabric and there was no stitch skipping.
H-suk needles with rounded edge. Such a needle easily develops filaments of fabric and loops and due to this passes between the threads, except for the damage to the material. Especially good for sewing thick knitwear, jersey and knitted materials
H-LR needle for skin with cutting edge. The incision is made at an angle of 45 degrees to the seam direction. The result is decorative seam, whose stitches have a small slope.
In order to be easier to navigate in the variety of needles, give a separate sign: